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Routes in Gong Show Wall

Air Conditioner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Alpine Fracture Clinic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Anything Goes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barracuda T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brush Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carney Trash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicks With Guns T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D.M.Z. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eavesdropping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freakshow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grab a Handful S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grainstem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
He She S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hey! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Last Exit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milky Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Never Say Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overexposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Schlitzy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Self-Contained Unit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Show Me the Monkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sideshow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Social Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Switch Hitter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tripping Old Birds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wages of Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 322 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aerili on Jul 25, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Up the hill right of Sideshow is an arete with a line of bolts going up its polished face toward an obvious hanging anchor (chains + mussy hooks). Pitch one of Overexposure goes up the crack in the dihedral just right of the 11a arete.

Once you approach the roof overhead, there are two possible ways to finish: undercling the roof or dance along a seam that angles out left at your feet. The seam takes you to the arete, whereupon you finish on the last 6 feet of the 11a line (but NOT 11a climbing here). Belay on the hanging anchor or build a gear anchor up higher on the slab under the edge of the roof (3-4" crack).

Pitch 2: Exit left under the roof and make a super airy step out over the void to a sloping slab and reach around the corner for a bomber hand jam. Pull a few steep moves straight up...and here is where the route-finding puzzle begins.

I found most of the next section of rock in all directions to be very dirty with many giant loose talus blocks jumbled all around. Going around a corner up and right appeared feasible and looked like it could lead to the supposed wide crack finish, but the rope drag would be horrendous, so I nixed it.

Going left leads into a super vegged-out gully that offers no real climbing until a few moves at the end. This is one ending. Instead I climbed somewhat straight up and made some steep and scary moves up more solid but dirty rock to a ledge (fixed nut at date of this writing) from which I could move left into the gully up higher and finish pulling the final bouldery moves (protection very so-so).

Descent

Walk off climber's right or go left 50 feet and rap from the anchors at the top of Freakshow (recommended).

Rappel option involves three single rop raps with a 60 m (says the guidebook) or can be done in two with a 70 m--BUT you must bypass the ginormous ledge and descend to the lower set of two mussy hook anchors you will encounter below if using the 70.

Protection

Cams #0.3-4 + standard set of nuts and many long runners if doing the whole route.

I recommend doing only p1 and lowering off the the mussy hooks (although the p2 step-over and the 3 moves after that are excellent...but everything else is crap thereafter), in which case many less runners are needed.

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