Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Stimson
Page Views: 1,463 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on May 4, 2012 with updates from Nate Ball
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

A fun finger crack with some face moves.

Start at the top of the slab finish of Main Attraction. Scramble over an off-width section to a ledge shortly above. Go up through a section of hands with an obvious rest. Locker jams take you to another rest and optional face moves to the top. Belay far back of the edge with a gear anchor.

Location

This is an alternate last pitch for Main Attraction. From the top of pitch two on that route, climb up and a bit right to start on top of a big block.

Protection

2x gear to 1"

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Short but sweet. Standard rack is fine, though I didn't place anything bigger than a #2 camalot. I had to build an anchor quite a ways back on top. Jul 20, 2012
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Micro to finger size pro. I placed one #2 Camalot in a hand pod but everything else was small. The crux is the first 20 feet or so of finger crack to the good rest. It gets easier the higher you go after that. The main description on this page says the main crack after the lower section is hands. Not true even if you have small hands. It is all finger size with a couple occasional tight hand pods. Jun 7, 2017