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Routes in Gong Show Wall

Air Conditioner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Alpine Fracture Clinic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Anything Goes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barracuda T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carney Trash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicks With Guns T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D.M.Z. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eavesdropping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freakshow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gong Show T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grab a Handful S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grainstem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
He She S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hey! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Last Exit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man Overboard S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Milky Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Never Say Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overexposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Schlitzy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Self-Contained Unit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Show Me the Monkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sideshow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Social Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Switch Hitter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tripping Old Birds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wages of Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: James Lombard (2002)
Page Views: 1,241 total · 12/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jul 2, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Almost a full pitch of sustained 5.9/5.10- edging and smearing. This is a really nice route, but your feet will hurt by the end if you don't either move fast or wear stiff shoes.

Location

Locate the obvious Gong Show roof that is the namesake of the crag (of the two huge roofs in Euan's crag pictures for the area, the Gong Show roof is the left most roof; the right side roof is directly above He She, Sideshow, etc.). To the left of the roof is a long, orange face; this is the route. To approach the route, walk underneath the Gong Show roof and around a corner until you reach a 3rd/4th class right facing corner/ramp (about approx. 50 feet to the left of the roof; NOT the right facing corner directly below the Gong Show roof). Ascend the corner to a ledge that is below and slightly to the left of the route. You can place some finger to hand sized cams for a belay if you are so inclined. The Gong Show roof will be 15-25 feet to your right. Climb the obvious, bolted orange face above.

Protection

14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes (a single 70 m will NOT reach).

Photos

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Jordan Schaefer
Huntington beach CA
 
Jordan Schaefer   Huntington beach CA
 
Another classic! Great edging throughout the whole climb. My toes started to go numb around bolt eight or nine but I was enjoying the climbing so much that it didn't matter until I reached the bottom and reality hit. I ended up doing some sketchy down climbing to the left because I only had one 70 m rope to lower off. We left a bail biner a few bolts up in order to clean the route. Either bring an 80 or tie two ropes together to avoid this. Sep 9, 2018

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