Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: James Lombard (2002)
Page Views: 1,248 total · 12/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jul 2, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Almost a full pitch of sustained 5.9/5.10- edging and smearing. This is a really nice route, but your feet will hurt by the end if you don't either move fast or wear stiff shoes.

Location

Locate the obvious Gong Show roof that is the namesake of the crag (of the two huge roofs in Euan's crag pictures for the area, the Gong Show roof is the left most roof; the right side roof is directly above He She, Sideshow, etc.). To the left of the roof is a long, orange face; this is the route. To approach the route, walk underneath the Gong Show roof and around a corner until you reach a 3rd/4th class right facing corner/ramp (about approx. 50 feet to the left of the roof; NOT the right facing corner directly below the Gong Show roof). Ascend the corner to a ledge that is below and slightly to the left of the route. You can place some finger to hand sized cams for a belay if you are so inclined. The Gong Show roof will be 15-25 feet to your right. Climb the obvious, bolted orange face above.

Protection

14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes (a single 70 m will NOT reach).

Photos

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Jordan Schaefer
Huntington beach CA
 
Jordan Schaefer   Huntington beach CA
 
Another classic! Great edging throughout the whole climb. My toes started to go numb around bolt eight or nine but I was enjoying the climbing so much that it didn't matter until I reached the bottom and reality hit. I ended up doing some sketchy down climbing to the left because I only had one 70 m rope to lower off. We left a bail biner a few bolts up in order to clean the route. Either bring an 80 or tie two ropes together to avoid this. Sep 9, 2018