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Routes in Gong Show Wall

Air Conditioner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Alpine Fracture Clinic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Anything Goes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barracuda T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brush Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carney Trash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicks With Guns T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D.M.Z. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eavesdropping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freakshow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grab a Handful S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grainstem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
He She S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hey! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Last Exit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milky Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Never Say Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overexposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Schlitzy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Self-Contained Unit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Show Me the Monkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sideshow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Social Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Switch Hitter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tripping Old Birds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wages of Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Scott Ayers and Eden Masters ('90)
Page Views: 1,927 total, 21/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This awesome climb has it all. Start up a left-trending ramp to reach the first bolt. Then get ready for an exciting hand traverse, a locker finger crack, an exposed mantle, and a bunch of other really fun climbing.

Location

just right of He She

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A set of TCU's or nuts is useful for protecting the finger crack at the top. Runout without at least one supplementary piece.

Photos

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rex parker
las vegas n.v
 
rex parker   las vegas n.v
 
um .yeah bring the gear. after a few bolts, 1/3 of the way up it gets a little easier. yes. But I believe the reason their is no bolts in this section is because their is a gorgeous right leaning crack that's just asking for a cam. and if you miss the next bolt or fall near it you will absolutely hit the ledge thats ten feet off the deck.. 30 feet to a ledge... bring a few cams is what I say. And no its not a sport climb. because . well yeah taking a long clean whipper can be fun if stuffs run out. and its a clean fall. adds excitement.. In this case... you will hit the ledge and go splat.. Jul 24, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Every individual's physical ability and mental comfort is different. I do not think the recommendation for a couple pieces is at all out of line, especially considering most people will have a rack with them at this crag anyway. Sep 21, 2012
Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
 
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
 
This is not a run-out climb, I did not even consider placing any pro. Should be categorized as sport, it would be a shame for someone not to get on this incredible line because they don't have trad gear. Sep 15, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Great route-- Scott Ayers puts up a bunch of em! Many thanks to him for all the superb lines he finds and the excellent and well-placed hardware he installs. (Crystal Crag also offers many top-notch Ayers routes, not to mention all the routes of his I have climbed in SoAz.)

For gear, I only used a #3 and a micro-cam near the top. Jul 25, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10a
Great route. As far as gear though, the top is a little runout, but its not so bad and the fall is clean. Thus, I don't bring gear for that part (though if you want gear, as Bryan states above, finger sized gear is what you would want). However, I would recommend a #3 Camalot for the initial portion of the climb because you are low enough to the ground at that point that blowing the moves up and left towards the ramp could be problematic. Just my 2 cents. Jul 1, 2010