Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,268 total · 68/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


82 Opinions

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Description

Once you scramble up a 3rd class ramp, negotiate the menacing off-width above by, well, staying to the left and bypassing it altogether. After a few scrambly moves (5.9/5.10ish), step ACROSS the off-width to your right, then face climb excellent rock past a couple bolts, then turn the lip onto some edgy slab. Gain the crack--which is now on your left--then charge up a slammer handcrack till the crack abruptly angles right into a traversing finger crack (the crux) with nothing but glacial polish for feet. Fire the finger crack then finish the pitch with 15 feet of stellar hand-jamming.

Location

Far right side of the Gong Show crag. This splitter "splits" the obvious polished face.

Protection

Standard rack with some extra finger-sized pieces (handy for the crux). Also, there are a few bolts, so have some draws handy.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
5.10+
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
5.10+
I found this route to be quite challenging and varied: off-width, hand-crack, finger-crack, off-hands, slab, slightly overhanging face-climbing... You name it, it had it. It's the most aesthetic line at the Gong Show crag, in my opinion. Do it--you won't regret it. Jan 29, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Abandoning that horizontal crack and lurching (some may call it a dyno) for the slot above is reachy and tough! It's been years, somehow I suspect it's not any easier. Jul 11, 2008
Max Joseph
Denver, CO
Max Joseph   Denver, CO
With two #5 camalots you can lead this very safely without clipping the bolts. The offwidth is a lot of fun - perfect hand/fist stacks - and goes at 5.10. Then you can voice your outrage towards the person who bolted this crack. Jul 25, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Hammer me if you like, but I think the shorter your arms are the harder it is to get a jam on the crux. The dudes who climbed the route before me told me I would get a great hand jam to assist in pulling through. Um....no. I was desperately trying to pimp the rounded edge of that dogleg (oh the pump at 9200'!) like a common sport climber. (Ok, ok, so sport climbers would have had a way easier time with that than I did!)

At least I know the gear is good on the traverse and the fall of shame is clean, haaaa.

This route is awesome and is physical climbing from start to finish. Jul 26, 2010
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a
It loses a star because it is a bolted in the "OW" section. With that said, it's a classic for the area and a gorgeous line anywhere. If you're firing through the diagnoling fingers section hoping to be rewarded when you get to the pod, you'll be sorely disappointed. In fact, you'll be entering the crux. Based on doing a lot of other cracks in the Sierra, I think this route is 11a. It is noticeably harder than Last Exit (11a), which is rattly fingers (crux) to an arete, and is just few climbs over to the climber's left of Wages of Skin. Apr 18, 2014
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.10c
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
  5.10c
Neil: there's a trick to making this climb feel like 10c, but I see lots of people doing it the "11a" way. Jul 30, 2014
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10+
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10+
Fantastic route, good pro thru the crux.
I have to agree with Neil that this is probably 11a, or at least 10d. There may be a 10c trick to it, but I never found it, and you don't get much opportunity to contemplate options as you're hanging by finger tips and smeering on a blank face. Aug 9, 2015
Blurie .
San Diego, Ca
 
Blurie .   San Diego, Ca
 
Awesome route, and it's not a one move wonder- the beginning is tricky as are the step overs around the off width. Crux is burly but well protected. Gets good winter sun until maybe 12:30PM Dec 31, 2017