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Routes in Der Zerkle

Absolution (submitted as Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
April Fools S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bar None S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Der Fuhrer TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face Right/Der Zerkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeling Lucky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Solution T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall (submitted as Absolution) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knot Carrot S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Beginnings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Ribspuren T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southeast Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunny Side One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunny Side Two T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Touch Monkey S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Clucks From Saigon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Face [Der Zerkle] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
What If You're Not? T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wing Ding S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir, 10/22/17
Page Views: 248 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September Details

Description

The grade was not initially given, as getting someone to repeat it was part of a bit of a game. Refer to page 30 of the thread Brotherhood Of the Traveling Stopper. There is a 'Travelling Stopper' presently in this climb that I was hoping will make its way into some other adventure.

But I found nobody would take the bait, so here you go, I think it is 10c-to-11a-ish. Call it 10+ as I am not sure. You either will get the sequence or it will be hard, but at least the crux protects well.

The top is sequential and a bit hard to flash on small gear on rock that has seen very little travel, but not dangerous. As for the rest, it can be protected, it is not terribly hard (nor terribly easy) and is certainly not pedestrian or a route to cut trad teeth on. The bottom is runout and/or requires creative gear placements.

I'd like to see someone repeat this, get that gear I left for them (intentionally), go use it, and post up.

The name refers to a few things, but as much as anything as "looking forward" to some rather nasty surgeries to recover an injured shoulder (torn cuff/labrum) and then trying to 'start over' again at 45 on getting into shape, again. I have been through too much of this crap. The route was done fairly left-handed, as the right was damaged goods.

Location

Starting in the huecoed SW face of the upper summit tower of Der Zerkle, climb cautiously up a face on dishes and sidepulls to reach a short, diagonal crack/flare that hooks up and left to intersect the arete and a crack just right of 'Happy Ending' through the bulge below the summit. Below the bulge, place a bomber #4 stopper, then get to the bulge. Sneak right on sequential moves (crux 1) and then up and right through the crack/seam to the top of the right crack (crux 2) which is also sequential. This is 5' right of 'Happy Ending' and just out of reach of that route.

Get onto the ledge above the bulge, nest in some Aliens in the back of the horizontal, then tackle the overhanging and pointed bulge at the top of the formation to the chains as for 'Happy Ending.'

Protection

This climb was established with long runouts in 5.8 terrain above the starting ledge. I believe that two #4 C4 Camalots and an old style #4 could have been placed to greatly decrease the odds of a tragic fall, and so the route with that gear would probably be PG-13, not R.

A few Aliens and small stoppers can also be placed along the way. A fixed nut was intentionally left at the crux of the route, wich could easily be cleaned. It is intended to be passed to the second ascent party. Reference the forum thread 'Brotherhood of the Traveling Stopper' on page 20.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
The route has had a second lead, including a lead fall from the crux.
Likewise it has been grade-confirmed as "very tricky" (and probably 11a to on-sight). Jun 14, 2018

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