Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Fred Knapp and Sharon Sadleir Vaughan
Page Views: 10,818 total · 49/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September Details


This is a great beginner sport route on the left end of the rock. Climb huge huecos up the steep face. TR access is from the left end of the rock.

Eds. Some may find the stretch to the 1st bolt runout. Consider a stickclip.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Some supplemental gear can be useful between the bolts. 10 feet of slings will make it easier on your rope.
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The hangers on the top of this route seem to appear and disappear. Just a heads up if you are leading this climb. Aug 28, 2001
Joe M  
Fun easy lead, the toughest part is the first 10 feet. If you set it up as a TR just watch for the tons of poison ivy all around the back of the anchor area. Oct 1, 2001
The 5.7 leader might want to consider this a serious route, as we didn't put in many bolts. Not really a true "sport" climb. It is a fun jug haul if you don't mind the runout. Also, sorry for the spinner bolt anchor. It was the first (only?) bolt I ever drilled. May 9, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
For a bolted route, I felt this was done nicely. Nothing hard about it, but, it is really fun! HUGE jugs up a slightly overhanging face. Two bolts at the anchor, both seemed just fine, easy walk off. Other good climbs at this crag as well... The east face of Der [Zerkle] is closed, but, the climbs on this side are still open. Jul 1, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
You can make this not s-rated by adding a #4 Camalot placed at a diagonal between the 1st and 2nd bolt. A very good route! Jul 25, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
There are currently a pair of yellow tape X's at the top of this route, apparently indicating some new bolts are to be placed? This is a fun route, reminiscent of indoor jug hauls. Four bolts are not a lot, but it still felt pretty safe. Oct 5, 2003
shad O'Neel  
If this is the grade you lead, I'm sure this route will provide extreme satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment, The ground could become reality clipping bolt 2. However, this seems to be one of the most fun 5.7s ever. The bolts are very well placed, and the climbing is giggly all the way to the top. The balancy crux somes early on, then just pure fun. Oct 26, 2003
Fred Knapp is my hero. Sep 1, 2004
The anchor on this route has been replaced with modern lowering bolts, and has been moved so there is no longer any rope drag over the edge. Sep 16, 2004
nick moeckel  
A really fun route, delicate for 5.7 right off the bat and then a steep jug-haul to the top. Heading up the east face and then hitting this on your way back is a good time. Jul 26, 2007
Matt Schaning
Boulder, CO
Matt Schaning   Boulder, CO
Beware of the hornet nest 1 foot to the right of the anchors! Jul 28, 2008
Ben Burnett
Ben Burnett   Colorado
I wouldn't say "beginning sport lead" given the fall potential if you're unfamiliar with leading. Bring a few cams and it might be a good for a beginner Mixed leader though. Nov 7, 2009

Probably not a good choice for a beginner to lead. Groundfall potential going to 2nd bolt, fairly steep and would be pumpy for a 5.7 climber. Fun route, though. Aug 4, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This is not a beginner sport route. The runouts are quite dangerous at virtually every clip, and while the holds are generally huge, if anything goes wrong, the consequences would be serious. Jul 11, 2016
John RB
Superior, CO
John RB   Superior, CO
I agree with the above: the description is dangerously misleading. This is not a beginner sport route. The first bolt is reasonably high, a fall trying to clip it would be very unpleasant (twisted ankle or worse), and there is not a good stance for clipping it. Not sure why it wasn't placed 12-18" lower where there is a stance (and then one other bolt before the 2nd bolt). Oh well... I guess this is Boulder, and we need climbs to be dangerous. :) Jul 20, 2017
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
The anchor now has glue-ins with Climb Tech Mussy hooks. The 4 lead bolts were already bomber, 1/2", stainless 5 piece bolts. May 23, 2018