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Routes in Der Zerkle

Absolution (submitted as Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
April Fools S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bar None S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Der Fuhrer TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face Right/Der Zerkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeling Lucky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Solution T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall (submitted as Absolution) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knot Carrot S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Beginnings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Ribspuren T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southeast Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunny Side One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunny Side Two T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Touch Monkey S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Clucks From Saigon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Face [Der Zerkle] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
What If You're Not? T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wing Ding S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Eric Johnson, Hank Caylor, Paul Glover
Page Views: 7,275 total · 37/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 28, 2002 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September Details

Description

Touch Monkey is another fun little sport climb in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. This route ascends inviting huecos up a slightly bulging face in the Court, an alcove on the S side of Der Zerkle, a short way past Square Rock. From NCAR, hike up the Mallory Cave Trail until this route is visible on your right.

Power up a fun, slightly overhanging wall with huecos past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is one slightly longer reach mixed in here. Rossiter's guide mentioned a fixed wire that I did not find in situ. Just to the right of this route is another slightly easier, bolted route, Knot Carrot.

Protection

Originally this was protected with 3 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. Years later it was retrobolted to have 5 protection bolts in addition to the two bolt anchor now with Climb Tech anchor hooks.

Photos

What a shame that someone is messing with the great sport climbs on Dinosaur Mt. So many good climbs that see so little traffic due to the hike. These are all historically significant climbs. Hopefully, there is such a thing as Karma and the chopper(s) will pay for their actions. Dec 20, 2004
XOG
XOG  
As of Feb. 13th Touch Monkey has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed. Feb 14, 2005
XOG
XOG  
I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused. Feb 14, 2005
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Good to see the new hardware up there but why go to all that work and leave the first ring bolt as is?? Apr 5, 2005
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
The first ring bolt is a scary clip. Quite reachy from an awkward stance. A sling can be put around a small horn about 12 feet up from the ground, though it doesn't do much good if you fall during the first clip. Aug 25, 2006
Alternate way to climb Touch Monkey: head left at the third bolt on jugs, then up right off a thin wafer, make a slightly pumpy clip, then head straight up. Better than Touch Monkey. Punch Monkey is 11c/d. Sep 7, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble  
 
The first bolt isn't a ring bolt anymore, but it still seems like it could unclip itself. The bolt is your only stop before the ground, so this is one of the few times I just put two opposing quickdraws on the first bolt. I'm probably just paranoid. WAAAAYYY easier than April Fools, but really fun! Aug 13, 2011
The second bolt can be clipped from easy ground before your commit to the action. Jun 11, 2012
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Do you mean the first bolt, mountainproject.com/v/10718…. Jun 11, 2012
Sorry -- I meant the first bolt. Jun 19, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11a
I broke a hold around the 2nd bolt yesterday. It's the large undercling... it's gone now. The route still goes at 11b. Sorry for being a large human being. Sep 10, 2014
Don't fall clipping the third bolt. You will have a good chance to hit the ledge at the beginning of the climb. The best holds to clip the third bolt are 10 of 12 inches to the right and slightly above the bolt.

The climb is a little awkward especially if you follow all the chalk to the left of the bolts. Oct 20, 2014
Justin Skaare   CO
 
Just FYI, you won't deck if you blow the third bolt. My buddy whipped on an extended runner today (that I suggested against), he's 6'3" and was fine. I wouldn't recommend a soft catch, but it's safe. Oct 25, 2014
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
I thought this thing was a blast. Hot in the sun though! BTW there are now 5 bolts on it, and it is very easy getting to the first bolt although it may be a little high. Aug 22, 2015
boo
  5.10d
boo  
  5.10d
This is a fun route and a great warm-up for the routes at Dinosaur Rock. The current grade is very soft. Nov 7, 2016
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
Yesterday, was one of those days that I am glad to have climbed long enough to see! The scary ring bolts have been replaced, bolting adjusted, and all the neighboring routes have Climb Tech anchor hooks too.

BTW, the first ascent team was using the best hardware available at the time. The way I heard it, the missing bolts were not really a karma kick-back situation, more of a failed attempt to replace the euro-funkness ring bolts. I've also heard volunteers say that replacing ring bolts is the toughest job a bolt-fixer has to face! Thank you all!! Jun 21, 2018

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