Two Clucks From Saigon
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9741, -105.2881 |
| FA: | ?pre 2002 or a clucker |
| Page Views: | 3,136 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
East Face Left
East Face Right
Description
I added this previously as a comment. If you are in the area and looking for more moderate lines, there is a line to the right which can go at 5.7 PG-13 or R (depending on the start) with mostly natural gear. The neighboring, lower-end, moderate routes, What if You're Not, Final Solution, Bar None, Der Fuhrer, & Ribspuren, may bring you to the area, this is just another filler route, but it may be fun. FWIW, I think it's 3rd best after What if You're Not & Final Solution. It's very likely been done previously.
Clip the 1st bolt of What if You're Not? and either downclimb and move right or just go up and right. Above the bolt place a #4 Camalot, angle right, traverse a ledge right, put a red Alien in a small pocket and/or #2 Camalot in a hueco. Move up, place a #3 Camalot in a pocket, move up and right, place a bomber #2 Camalot in a crack, pull a bulge and move up to the top. Protect the finish with an orange Alien. We named it "Two Clucks from Saigon." It is left of Wing Ding (which is much harder). Kinda feels like Red River Gorge.
Alternative finish: you can bugger off right to the anchors of Hot if You're Not instead of pulling the final bulge. We had named that "One Click to Saigon."
Fun hueco pulling. Addendum: Friends don't fit these huecos as well. Camalots do better.
Location
This starts on or just left of the start for What if You're Not? Then, after clipping the first bolt (if you start this way), you angle right. You can make it complete independent by staying right of the 1st bolt, it's then in the R range.



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