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Oreivatis Rex

Name: Oreivatis Rex
Rating: 2.7

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13

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Routes in The Fin

L › R R › L A › Z

	Andrology S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Edge of Time S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tree Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Unknown 10+ (the right side of The Edge) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 12- S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
GPS:	40.3127, -105.5411
FA:	Jason Walker?, 1996?
Page Views:	2,474 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Monomaniac on May 13, 2017
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Area reopened Details

Per tooTALLtim: as of 9/24/20, the Lily Lake parking lot has been open for a while.

Previously: per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.

Description

Note: this is the "unknown" route left of Andrology on the west face of The Fin (referred to as "15 Project (?)" in the Gillett guidebook). I've taken the liberty of naming it "Oreivatis Rex" based on my ascent today. If there has been an earlier redpoint of this line, let me know and I'd be happy to correct the name.

This beautiful wall of steep crimps is guarded by an unfortunate band of exfoliating choss. The rock in the business is stellar, but you have to wade through some junk to get there. Fortunately the holds through the chossy section are all jams and slopey, hueco jugs. The quality of the upper panel makes up for the mungy start, but getting through it is a bit nerve wracking.

Begin up the creaky flake system a few feet from the left end of the wall. Mostly solid hand jams (and a bit of groveling) lead to a horizontal pod system about 20' up. Traverse right here, around the arête, then follow more pods straight up, then angling right, to reach the first bolt. A lower-angle section with big edges leads to the steep headwall. The edges get smaller and farther apart the higher you climb up this stunning panel, culminating in some long, cruxy reaches just below the summit.

Location

This is the leftmost bolted line on the west wall of The Fin.

Protection

The flake system eats up hand-sized cams, as does the horizontal pod. You may want some slings here to manage rope drag. The rest is well-protected with bolts, but there is currently no anchor (there is one bolt just below the lip, and two 3/8" studs with no hangers or washers/nuts--it would be very easy to add a proper anchor to these studs). It's pretty easy to scramble up the back and rap down to clean your gear.