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Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Rupesh Chhagan
Page Views: 77 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Bruni on Apr 28, 2017
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Starts on the rock mound left of Learning to Crawl. Grab a good incut flake to start which is a few feet to the right of an obvious stalactite, then move through a tough and reachy boulder problem to get through the bulge.

Location

Two routes left of "No Recess". Recommended to stick clip #1, and the 2nd bolt of O.R.A.L (Route immediately left of "No Recess") as a belayer directional.

The end of the route is arbitrary. If you've clipped the 2nd bolt you've climbed the 13b, and adding the 5.7 climbing above the 2nd bolt will add absolutely nothing to the grade. It's possible to climb up and traverse over to the anchors of O.R.A.L. to clean but that can be a pain in the ass. The other option is to clip #2, climb as high as you feel like is necessary to claim a send, then downclimb, unclip #2, and lower off #1. If you were able to put #1 up with a stick clip you should be able to take it down with a stick clip too.

Protection

Two bolts + rope directional bolt. No Anchors

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