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Routes in Sex Canyon
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Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hyper Salivation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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O.R.A.L (aka ORB) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pavlovian Response S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Telegraph Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 30.36309, -98.12424 |
| FA: | Rupesh Chhagan |
| Page Views: | 947 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Bruni on Apr 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
Description
Starts on the rock mound left of Learning to Crawl. Grab a good incut flake to start which is a few feet to the right of an obvious stalactite, then move through a tough and reachy boulder problem to get through the bulge.
Location
Two routes left of "No Recess". Recommended to stick clip #1, and the 2nd bolt of O.R.A.L (Route immediately left of "No Recess") as a belayer directional.
The end of the route is arbitrary. If you've clipped the 2nd bolt you've climbed the 13b, and adding the 5.7 climbing above the 2nd bolt will add absolutely nothing to the grade. It's possible to climb up and traverse over to the anchors of O.R.A.L. to clean but that can be a pain in the ass. The other option is to clip #2, climb as high as you feel like is necessary to claim a send, then downclimb, unclip #2, and lower off #1. If you were able to put #1 up with a stick clip you should be able to take it down with a stick clip too.
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