Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 1,472 total · 13/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 3, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Step to the right off of the boulder onto the face, work up to a jug sidepull. Then some difficult moves off of sidepulls with limited feet leads to the flake. Jugs take you out the steepening wall to an anchor over the lip.

Easiest to clean by top roping.

Location

Shimmy up the broken corner onto the ledge, the route climbs straight up from here but it is easier to step left onto the boulder and back right onto the wall.

Protection

Bolts and a chain anchor.

Photos

Jesse Bruni
Austin
  5.12a
Jesse Bruni   Austin
  5.12a
Graham, I remember when I sent a few years ago thinking the same thing. I believe I did this in the same weekend as Yertle, but this took more effort for me. Dec 5, 2017
Graham L
  5.12a
Graham L  
  5.12a
So the guide bases the 12a grade off topping out and calls it 11d if you just clip the chains. I’m saying it’s solid 12a moving through the opening side pull crux. Dec 4, 2017
Jake Cantu
  5.12a
Jake Cantu  
  5.12a
Definitely a reimer's classic! This route is just pure fun! Get on it! Oct 25, 2016