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Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 386 total, 4/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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This route is pretty consistent from the time you leave the stalactite in the roof till you reach a jug by the last bolt.

Climb up on some scary tuffa features, some are cracked and hollow sounding. Make a big move to the lip and some bad holds. Work up onto the face with sharp holds and long moves. Take notice of the many rock scars and wonder if something is missing, based on the grade in the guide book (5.12c) it sure seems as if something is gone. Eventually gain a jug to the right of the last bolt. A few more moves on sharp holds takes one to the chain anchors.

Several of the bolts on this route are pretty badly rusted and water was dripping out of one of them, it did not really seem safe.


This route is the furthest left of the middle group, just left of Super Cruiser and Learning to Crawl which both have fixed draws. Climbs through stalactites at the left end of the low overhang to start.


5 bolts and anchors.


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Jesse Bruni
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Strongly disagree with Lee's rating here. The holds are all there, albeit some of the moves are big. It's noticeably more difficult than Learning to Crawl, I think, but not quite as hard as 12d. This route deserves more traffic than it gets as it's quite a lot of fun. Jun 20, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
HA. I try to stay off of both, just harder to stay off of Learning since my wife wants to do it. Dec 21, 2010
Matthew NM
Matthew NM  
[rebuttal] Stayed off this route until today because of lee's glowing review (haha). Honestly, thought the moves were super cool on varied holds (pockets, slopers, pinches, underclings, a few stalactites and tufa blobs, and one really cool fin). The grade seemed accurate, maybe a touch hard but not enough to warrant 12d. And hell, it's Reimers, all the freaking bolts are rusty and need replacing... For a local, I think this is one of the better climbs at the grade and I thought deserves more traffic. I'll happily repeat this before the much more popular learning to crawl right next to it. Dec 19, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Because of the issue with the bolts, the sharpness of the holds and the hollow nature of some of them it is possible that this route is deserving of the coveted bomb, but the movement is at least decent. Nov 3, 2009