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Routes in Sex Canyon
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Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hyper Salivation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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O.R.A.L (aka ORB) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pavlovian Response S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Telegraph Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Wayne "Dr. Thrill" Crill |
| Page Views: | 1,242 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Description
This route is pretty consistent from the time you leave the stalactite in the roof till you reach a jug by the last bolt.
Climb up on some scary tuffa features, some are cracked and hollow sounding. Make a big move to the lip and some bad holds. Work up onto the face with sharp holds and long moves. Take notice of the many rock scars and wonder if something is missing, based on the grade in the guide book (5.12c) it sure seems as if something is gone. Eventually gain a jug to the right of the last bolt. A few more moves on sharp holds takes one to the chain anchors.
Several of the bolts on this route are pretty badly rusted and water was dripping out of one of them, it did not really seem safe.
Climb up on some scary tuffa features, some are cracked and hollow sounding. Make a big move to the lip and some bad holds. Work up onto the face with sharp holds and long moves. Take notice of the many rock scars and wonder if something is missing, based on the grade in the guide book (5.12c) it sure seems as if something is gone. Eventually gain a jug to the right of the last bolt. A few more moves on sharp holds takes one to the chain anchors.
Several of the bolts on this route are pretty badly rusted and water was dripping out of one of them, it did not really seem safe.
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