Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Sex Canyon
|Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||386 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2009|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff|
DescriptionThis route is pretty consistent from the time you leave the stalactite in the roof till you reach a jug by the last bolt.
Climb up on some scary tuffa features, some are cracked and hollow sounding. Make a big move to the lip and some bad holds. Work up onto the face with sharp holds and long moves. Take notice of the many rock scars and wonder if something is missing, based on the grade in the guide book (5.12c) it sure seems as if something is gone. Eventually gain a jug to the right of the last bolt. A few more moves on sharp holds takes one to the chain anchors.
Several of the bolts on this route are pretty badly rusted and water was dripping out of one of them, it did not really seem safe.
LocationThis route is the furthest left of the middle group, just left of Super Cruiser and Learning to Crawl which both have fixed draws. Climbs through stalactites at the left end of the low overhang to start.
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