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Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 343 total, 3/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 2, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Undercling up to a drilled 2 finger threader, then a broken looking undercling and edge. A couple more holds that seem as though they would be better leads up to a couple of honking jugs. A hard to find hold leads up to the horizontal below the final roof. Make moves up and right to an anchor.

This route is very steep, so steep you'd be better off cleaning it on TR.

Location

4th route from the right of the center grouping of routes. First route right of Bolus or 3rd route right of Super Cruiser (route with fixed cable draws).

Protection

Bolts and a chain anchor.

Photos

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I love overhung routes that have a boulder problem in the middle that lead you into jugs. That's this route in a nutshell. Great "3 move wonder" 5.12c. There's a bunch of stuff you can grab around the anchors, but there's a large orange block to the left of the chains that felt kind of unstable the other day. May 19, 2016