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Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Greg Brooks
Page Views: 263 total, 2/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 30, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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This route has some very cool features.

Start out by getting yourself over the initial roof with some difficulty. Then work up into the corner formed by the wall and the orange feature, gaining some cool tuffas. Make moves left to stand on the grey "nose" and climb up on pockets to a loose looking flake and the final clip, good holds reside up and left.


The route is the left most of the right group of routes it climbs up just to the left of a blocky orange section of rock that forms a series of dihedrals.


4 bolts and un-welded shuts for anchors. The hangers on the anchor should be replaced at a minimum as unwelded shuts really are not the safest option, the route would also benefit with in general moving the anchor down a little and quite a bit to the right as the rope runs over a lip and is pretty hard on it.


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