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Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Brooks
Page Views: 475 total, 4/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 2, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Steep start up to a couple of big moves to reach the traverse. Traverse right on good holds but with really high feet. Clipping the anchor is a bit funky. Even though the anchor hangs down below the roof rope drag on this is pretty bad if you have someone following which is really the only way to clean it because of the traversing nature.

Location

The furthest right of the center grouping of routes. Climbs up about 20 feet, then traverses right for about 20 feet.

Protection

Bolts and a chain anchor.

Photos

Better cleaning beta: go in direct to the last bolt and reach down and grab the one before it, clean the last bolt and go for a small ride, retrieve the rest with a stick clip. 4 days ago
DGraham
Dallas
  5.11c
DGraham   Dallas
  5.11c
Bottom starts out with a fun easy sequence on positive holds to the 3rd bolt. I recommend setting up a TR at the anchors and having another person climb up the old belayer side of the rope to clean the draws. A few spinning bolts. Oct 5, 2014