Fantasia
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0462, -116.1445 |
| FA: | Roy McClenahan, Walt Shipley 02-1988 |
| Page Views: | 782 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Jan 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start to the right of Mental Bankruptcy and Autopia at the obvious, left facing corner/chimney (the arête just right of this huge corner/chimney is the line of the Mad Hatter).
Pitch 1: Climb up the huge corner/chimney about 50 feet, then go left past a block to a belay at a right facing corner below the upper headwall.
Pitch 2: Climb the right facing corner then up to a bolt belay on a dike.
Pitch 3: Climb the crack directly above the belay (crux).



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