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Routes in Disneyland Dome

Autopia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brass Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enchanted Stairway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fantasia T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Jungle Cruise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mental Bankruptcy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mr. Todd's Wild Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Never Grow Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Never Land TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peter Pan's Flight TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snow White's Scary Adventures T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Spaced Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Stereo in B Flat TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tragic Kingdom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walt's Frozen Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wheel of Fortune T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Charles Cole, Maria Cranor & Dan Leichtfuss, 1982
Page Views: 489 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route traverses most of the west face of Disneyland Dome via a thick band of protruding quartz. It starts near the southern end, a short scramble up and left of Jungle Cruise. As with most traverses, the follower faces the same dangers as the lead climber. The rock is somewhat gritty from a lack of traffic.

Protection

Much of the climb is unprotected scrambling along a 4th class ledge. A light rack to 2" is useful for protecting the short crack at the start of pitch 1, and there is a good nut placement before the first bolt of pitch 2. All bolts are 3/8".

Photos

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Jim Lawyer    
 
My guidebooks show 4 bolts, but there are only three. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3. After unclipping the 3rd bolt, the second faces groundfall. Mar 28, 2014
Bolts were replaced by Tucker Tech and friend last weekend, 12/08. Dec 10, 2012
Randy
 
Randy  
 
FA: Charles Cole, Maria Cranor, Dan Leichtfuss, 82.

Either rap from the bolt anchor at the end of pitch 2 (100+ feet) or:

Do a Pitch 3: Continue left on the dike (5.7) to where is meets a ramp system. From here, either climb up and right to the summit, or down and left to eventually reach the ground. Nov 16, 2009
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
All bolts are 1/4"s and need to be replaced, including the 2 bolt semi-hanging belay. We missed the turn where you're supposed to start climbing up and kept on traversing the dike. Eventually we down climbed a low angle slab to some boulders and then climbed up an easy-5th crack/chimney to the summit. Took 4 pitches going this way.

The leader and follower should both be solid on gritty 5.10 slab. After the follower unclips the final bolt on p2 there's a couple 5.7 friction moves on questionable rock - a fall here would be disastrous. I had my follower leave a bail biner to stay clipped into the bolt as she made the moves. Then when she was on easier terrain she tied in short with an overhand on a bight and untied her fig8 to pull the rope through the bail biner.

Once on the summit we walked south (towards Jungle Cruise) and then scrambled down a large ramp heading towards the northeast corner of the formation. Here we found a single piece of webbing around a small boulder wedged in a crack. There was a rope tied to the webbing but the rope had been severed about 6 feet down?!? I used what was left of the rope to sling a larger chockstone and got it sort of equalized with the webbing. From here one single-rope rappel got us down. Def bring some extra webbing if you plan on going this way. The guidebook shows a different descent off the northwest corner but we couldn't find this, and I imagine it would either require rappels or 5th class downclimbing. All said and done, this was one of the more adventurous climbs I've done in Jtree, but a good one if cragging in Hidden Valley bores you. Nov 16, 2009