Disneyland Dome Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,400 ft | 1,341 m |
| GPS: |
34.0462, -116.1445 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 14,701 total · 52/month | |
| Shared By: | Craig Clarence on Mar 20, 2003 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is another big Wonderland dome that most people just cruise past on their way to the Bighorn Mating Grotto, but it has a couple of good routes worth doing. It is south and west facing so it gets good sun most the day. It also has a few routes on its north side to check out on warmer days.
The south face is characterized by huge plates and chickenheads, providing bomber holds and slung pro for the somewhat runout routes on this side of the rock. The best route on this face is Jungle Cruise (5.10b), a finger to hand crack.
The west face has the excellent dike traverse route Mental Bankruptcy, which can be done in 2 or 3 pitches.
- Rappel bolts/rings have been installed for descending the south side routes. From the topout of Jungle Cruise, walk east about 20 feet on a ledge and you'll see them. A 50 meter rope gets you down.
Getting There
The trailhead for this rock is the dirt parking lot for Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. There are really good maps in the Vogel guide p. 281 and 306, which will get you right to the rock. Following is a rough description of the approach:
Drive past the turnoff to Barker Dam and take the next left on the dirt road. Park at the lot, and start walking up an old dirt road which has a wire blocking vehicle access. A few hundred feet up this road there is an obvious trail to the left - take this trail. After this turn you walk up a wash, passing Uncle Willie's (a ruined brick building), and continue almost directly north in a big wash for a mile, maybe more. You will pass many climbs on either side of the wash, and the Astro Domes will soon come into view to your left.
After you pass the Freak Brothers Dome (very obvious - long dome with 3 rounded aretes facing west) you will see the plated south face of Disneyland Dome to the northeast.
- The approach takes about 45 minutes from the car.
Classic Climbing Routes at Disneyland Dome
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