All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South > Central Wonderland

Disneyland Dome Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Disneyland Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Autopia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Brass Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Enchanted Stairway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Fantasia T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Jungle Cruise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mad Hatter, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mental Bankruptcy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Mr. Todd's Wild Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Never Grow Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Never Never Land TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Peter Pan's Flight TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Snow White's Scary Adventures T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Spaced Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Stereo in B Flat TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tragic Kingdom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Walt's Frozen Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Wheel of Fortune T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,400 ft	1,341 m
GPS:	34.0462, -116.1445 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	14,570 total · 54/month
Shared By:	Craig Clarence on Mar 20, 2003
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is another big Wonderland dome that most people just cruise past on their way to the Bighorn Mating Grotto, but it has a couple of good routes worth doing. It is south and west facing so it gets good sun most the day. It also has a few routes on its north side to check out on warmer days.

The south face is characteried by huge plates and chickenheads, providing bomber holds and slung pro for the somewhat runout routes on this side of the rock. The best route on this face is ?Jungle Cruise? (5.10b), a finger to hand crack.

The west face has the excellent dike traverse route Mental Bankruptcy, which can be done in 2 or 3 pitches.

Rappel bolts/rings have been installed for descending the south side routes. From the topout of Jungle Cruise, walk east about 20 feet on a ledge and you'll see them. A 50 meter rope gets you down.

Getting There

The trailhead for this rock is the dirt parking lot for Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. There are really good maps in the Vogel guide p. 281 and 306, which will get you right to the rock. Following is a rough description of the approach:

Drive past the turnoff to Barker Dam and take the next left on the dirt road. Park at the lot, and start walking up an old dirt road which has a wire blocking vehicle access. A few hundred feet up this road there is an obvious trail to the left - take this trail. After this turn you walk up a wash, passing Uncle Willie's (a ruined brick building), and continue almost directly north in a big wash for a mile, maybe more. You will pass many climbs on either side of the wash, and the Astro Domes will soon come into view to your left.

After you pass the Freak Brothers Dome (very obvious - long dome with 3 rounded aretes facing west) you will see the plated south face of Disneyland Dome to the northeast. The approach takes about 45 minutes from the car.