Autopia
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0462, -116.1445 |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett and Vicki Pelton, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 921 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Jan 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a very loose and dangerous climb that should be avoided or top roped.
Climb up a steep chimney slot until possible to exit left on very loose face holds and steep hand crack. Trying straight up looks more pleasant but quickly gets super hard.
Continue on very loose ground and creative gear placement to a half out 1/4" rawl drive bolt. Spooge up heady steep face to reach a shallow crack that is better climbing.



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