Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Schweizer, Randy Vogel, & Dave Evans, April 1986
Page Views: 521 total · 3/month
Shared By: Randy on Mar 14, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is found on the north end of Disneyland Dome; a crack leading to steep face on the obvious buttress.

Climb up a ramp and make a tricky move left into the easy appearing left slanting crack. This crack is steep, awkward and tricky (10d) and begins thin and finishes wide. Above the crack, make a circuitous journey on thin face climbing past 4 bolts (11b), eventually leading to a large ledge.

Rappel (100 feet) from a bolt anchor on the ledge.

Approach

From where you see the southwest end of Disneyland Dome (Tragic Kingdom, etc), continue north along the Wonderland Valley, past Duckwaddle Dome until you can head right (east) in an open area (heading east along the north side of Pringle Rock). After passing Pringle Rock, the north end of Disneyland Dome will be seen on your right. Scramble up boulders to the base of the route.

Protection

A variety of pro from thin up to 3+ inches for the crack, runners and 4 bolts.

Photos

I think Randy has forgotten that I was on the FA as well and placed one of the bolts, the second one. It was the only time that I ever climbed with Paul. Nov 20, 2003
Randy
  5.11b
Randy  
  5.11b
Eek! I guess Dave must be right as I remember Washoe (his amazing dog) third classing all the way up the boulders to the base of the route. Corrected above. Nov 21, 2003