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Routes in Disneyland Dome

Autopia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brass Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enchanted Stairway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fantasia T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Jungle Cruise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mental Bankruptcy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mr. Todd's Wild Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Never Grow Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Never Land TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peter Pan's Flight TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snow White's Scary Adventures T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Spaced Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Stereo in B Flat TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tragic Kingdom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walt's Frozen Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wheel of Fortune T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Schweizer, Randy Vogel, & Dave Evans, April 1986
Page Views: 511 total · 3/month
Shared By: Randy on Mar 14, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is found on the north end of Disneyland Dome; a crack leading to steep face on the obvious buttress.

Climb up a ramp and make a tricky move left into the easy appearing left slanting crack. This crack is steep, awkward and tricky (10d) and begins thin and finishes wide. Above the crack, make a circuitous journey on thin face climbing past 4 bolts (11b), eventually leading to a large ledge.

Rappel (100 feet) from a bolt anchor on the ledge.

Approach

From where you see the southwest end of Disneyland Dome (Tragic Kingdom, etc), continue north along the Wonderland Valley, past Duckwaddle Dome until you can head right (east) in an open area (heading east along the north side of Pringle Rock). After passing Pringle Rock, the north end of Disneyland Dome will be seen on your right. Scramble up boulders to the base of the route.

Protection

A variety of pro from thin up to 3+ inches for the crack, runners and 4 bolts.

Photos

I think Randy has forgotten that I was on the FA as well and placed one of the bolts, the second one. It was the only time that I ever climbed with Paul. Nov 20, 2003
Randy
  5.11b
Randy  
  5.11b
Eek! I guess Dave must be right as I remember Washoe (his amazing dog) third classing all the way up the boulders to the base of the route. Corrected above. Nov 21, 2003

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