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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland South
> Central Wonderland
> Disneyland Dome
Wheel of Fortune
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Disneyland Dome
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Autopia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brass Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Enchanted Stairway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fantasia T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Jungle Cruise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mad Hatter, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mental Bankruptcy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Mr. Todd's Wild Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Never Grow Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Never Never Land TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peter Pan's Flight TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snow White's Scary Adventures T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Spaced Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Stereo in B Flat TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tragic Kingdom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Walt's Frozen Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wheel of Fortune T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Paul Schweizer, Randy Vogel, & Dave Evans, April 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,220 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Mar 14, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is found on the north end of Disneyland Dome; a crack leading to steep face on the obvious buttress.
Climb up a ramp and make a tricky move left into the easy appearing left slanting crack. This crack is steep, awkward and tricky (10d) and begins thin and finishes wide. Above the crack, make a circuitous journey on thin face climbing past 4 bolts (11b), eventually leading to a large ledge.
Rappel (100 feet) from a bolt anchor on the ledge.
Climb up a ramp and make a tricky move left into the easy appearing left slanting crack. This crack is steep, awkward and tricky (10d) and begins thin and finishes wide. Above the crack, make a circuitous journey on thin face climbing past 4 bolts (11b), eventually leading to a large ledge.
Rappel (100 feet) from a bolt anchor on the ledge.
Approach
From where you see the southwest end of Disneyland Dome (Tragic Kingdom, etc), continue north along the Wonderland Valley, past Duckwaddle Dome until you can head right (east) in an open area (heading east along the north side of Pringle Rock). After passing Pringle Rock, the north end of Disneyland Dome will be seen on your right. Scramble up boulders to the base of the route.
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