Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Craig Fry & Bob Robach, February 1981
Page Views: 1,235 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Face climbing leads into the crack which varies from fingers to hands (5.10b) and then ends about 2/3 of the way up the face. After the crack ends move up and right on huge plates (5.6) to the ledge Enchanted Stairway ends on. To descend head east (towards Thrutcher Dome) through a notch to reach rap anchors above the shorter east face. One rope easily makes it down.

A superb route which combines some fun crack climbing with runout but exhilarating face climbing, all in a semi-remote setting. Three stars out of five.


Starts about 40' down and left from Enchanted Stairway below an obvious crack system that starts partway up the face.


Gear to 3"


tony grice  
Super route, great position , painless approach, Stout start leads to easy runout patinas, long pitch. Head right at top to rap station Apr 19, 2006
Bonesaw   CA
Instead of heading right to rap station, another option is to top out on false summit with a 70m rope. The cool patina face climbing continues up and slightly left, making for a very nice 225ft pitch. Mar 31, 2011
I agree with Les again...keep going up. Apr 21, 2011
Some small wires and finger-size cams are necessary for protecting the short but demanding crux at the start of the crack. Dec 10, 2012
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
This was at the top of my grade scale - couldn't unlock the crux where the main crack starts after the low leftward traverse...

Would love to hear the beta for that. The feet seemed nonexistent and so the good fingerlock seemed out of reach off the so-so hand jam. Jan 13, 2014
Short crux. Pretty flaky if you're trying to go straight up, I ended up finishing right after I tore off a few holds. Jan 21, 2018