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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: pre-1984
Page Views: 94 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Nov 14, 2016
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This is most likely 'The Rusty-P', as described in the old "Tao's Rock II" guide (1984). The location and description seem to match pretty well, and it does possess a rusty piton up high near the end. Start up at a right-angling crack, and either follow that or aim for some more overlaps above. Then either scamper around on the face (slinging a chickenhead), or aim right toward a crack system. Pass by the piton in the crack (the pin is not useful for pro, though), and aim for the chains on top of The Fake-P. Overall, much more mellow than most 5.7's, but I left the grade as originally presented.
The old-timey guides' beta is as such: "just behind A-frame to East find crack, climb crack using face on right, bear left at top of crack, 3rd class to belay stance, hardest part about this climb is figuring out how-the -hell to get down" (1984). (The new bolt anchor at the top of The Fake-P obviates this problem). In the "Taos Rock III" guide (1991), Rusty P is described simply as a "Laid back crack with ancient pin." Both guides have this climb mapped on the SW end of Mosaic Rock, so it seems likely this is it. If anyone knows this to be wrong, I'll amend this page.

Location

On the west facing buttress to the climber's right of Beastie Alley; about 25 feet left of the start of The Fake-P.

Protection

Single gear rack. One nice chickenhead can be slung.

Photos

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