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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ?, pre-1981
Page Views: 483 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Sep 22, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This route is written up in the 1981 guide and in the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, but I don't know that I would have been able to find it, based on the written description, if I hadn't had the help of a long-time TP climber to point it out to me. He had climbed this route back in the days before the Thunder Toad anchors went in, so we think we have the correct line of Lichen identified here.
Start up the thin face just to the right of Thunder Toad. Get established in the wide fissures under the little roof, then head up the wide seam out the left side. If you want to do this route as 2 pitches, at about 85 feet, you can belay at the chain anchors for Thunder Toad and Danger Mouse, or ignore the bolts and build a gear anchor. From that ledge, continue slightly right, up the easier, but interesting layback seam. At about 190 feet off the ground, a nice tinaja just below the summit provides some good gear placements for an anchor.
There's some awkward 5.8 moves at the start, but the rest goes at ~5.5 or below, so it's a good easy adventure.

Location

Starts from the most westerly point of Mosaic Rock, just left of Beastie Alley.
There's no anchor on top. My source reported that in days gone by, the descent involved doing an easy gear-protected downclimb off the east side. However, having done it once, that's an awkward and unpleasant option. It's probably much easier and faster to simply downclimb P2 back to the bolted anchors and rap from there.

Protection

Standard TP trad rack; cams from tiny (for the start) to #3 C4. An optional bolted anchor is less than halfway up; gear anchor on the summit (takes bigger cams).

Photos

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