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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Find the pin in the crack left of the black-hangered Unnamed (5.11) sport climb. Climb up to this by liebacking up the well-protected crack, or use face holds to either side. Clip the pin, then choose your adventure. I angled left, slung marginal chickenheads, then traversed left at least 20' with no opportunities for any good gear (which was spicy for both the leader & follower; possibly could sling more knobs?), and finished up a hands/OW crack to an anchor built off of a big block at the top. Straight up from the piton might go, but looked steep, thin, and poorly protected.

This climb is mentioned in the guidebook as one of 3 mixed routes in the Alley, but is not described or shown in a photo or topo, so you're on your own as far as the routefinding.

If someone has more info on this route (name/FA/intended direction), it would be interesting to learn the story of this old, forgotten route.

Location

Just left of the black-bolted Unnamed 5.11 sport climb on the south side of the Alley, look for a knifeblade piton in a shallow right-facing crack.

There is another mixed climb with 2 old 1/4"(?) bolts left of this line. No details at this time, but it would share the finish that I used for this climb.

Descend by scrambling down (some 4th class) to the anchor for Pony Express, and rap from there back into the Alley with 1 rope.

Protection

Nuts & cams to 3".
Bring thin slings to tie off chickenheads.

Photos

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