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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 85 total · 1/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Clip a high first bolt with some difficulty, and begin to cruise up easy terrain. Near the top the angle steepens and the holds shrink, presenting a sequential crux by last bolt. Clip this final bolt and make a tenuous traverse right to a nice tight hand and big finger crack. Follow this a few more feet to the anchor of Pony Express.

This route seemed a bit soft for the grade compared to other 5.11- TP climbs. It's also very well protected.

Location

The second bolted route on the right side (as you walk in) of Beastie Alley

Protection

Quickdraws for bolts(6?) and maybe a .5 and/or .75 camalot for the top. Mediums sized nuts would also protect the final crack.

chains at the top, shared with Pony Express

Photos

Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.11a
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.11a
Fun bouldery start to exciting delicate finish. Nice route! Sep 17, 2012

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