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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Giddings? June 1990
Page Views: 548 total, 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

The hardest easiest-looking climb I've ever seen. Originally rated 10d, now listed at 11a in the books, and harder if you're short.

The first bolt is clipped with a reachy undercling (stickclip or find a tall friend if <5'9"). Step right of this bolt, grab the "juggy" crystals and move up to the horizontal crack using footholds under the low overlap that you can't see (1st crux). If you're too short, this move might not be protected because you might not be able to reach the bolt. Traverse left 10' along the horizontal overlap. Up past the rest of the bolts with a distinct high-step/mantle move (crux), with a bolt at your nose for the crux move. After the last bolt, run it out on 5.6 to the anchor (shared with Thunder Toad).

Danger Mouse is the greatest secret agent in the world, and would certainly climb this with no difficulty.

This is an excellent climb for a person looking to try their first 5.10+/11- at TP. The bolts are right where you want them.

Location

The leftmost of two bolted climbs on the west-facing slab just left of Beastie Alley.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Thunder Toad). Don't bring other gear.

Photos

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Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Mark failed to mention about the first crux:

6' people might forget that its also reachy!! I'm 5'8" and was an inch too short to reach the 'thin' holds without jumping. At least I could clip the first bolt (barely). Jul 26, 2008