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Routes in Beastie Alley
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Danger Mouse S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inner Sanctum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Key to the Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lock and Key T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nuts and Knuckles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thunder Toad S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Unnatural Attraction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 36.66047, -105.98415 |
| FA: | Jeff Giddings? June 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,457 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Also, this is a seasonal raptor nesting area.
Details
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
The hardest easiest-looking climb I've ever seen. Originally rated 10d, now listed at 11a in the books, and harder if you're short.
The first bolt is clipped with a reachy undercling (stickclip or find a tall friend if <5'9"). Step right of this bolt, grab the "juggy" crystals and move up to the horizontal crack using footholds under the low overlap that you can't see (1st crux). If you're too short, this move might not be protected because you might not be able to reach the bolt. Traverse left 10' along the horizontal overlap. Up past the rest of the bolts with a distinct high-step/mantle move (crux), with a bolt at your nose for the crux move. After the last bolt, run it out on 5.6 to the anchor (shared with Thunder Toad).
Danger Mouse is the greatest secret agent in the world, and would certainly climb this with no difficulty.
This is an excellent climb for a person looking to try their first 5.10+/11- at TP. The bolts are right where you want them.
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