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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 647 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

A 2-bolt anchor with chains appeared several years ago on this low buttress. The bulging face directly below the bolts appears to be unprotectable for quite a ways up. However, an easy crack approaches the bolts from pretty far to the left, and it's a pretty good beginner lead. Once the rope is hung from the chains, though, it's kind of hard to rap back down the crack because it's so far off the plumb line. Instead, the 5.8 face directly below can be toproped, although this is also kind of a PITA because the bolts are so far back behind the bulge that you end up with a bit of rope drag, and the oak trees at the base are in the way.
[Edit 2016] I once thought that this crack was 'The Rusty-P', as described in the old "Tao's Rock II" guide (1984). The location and description seemed to match, but I was perplexed by the absence of a piton. Since then, we found the piton off to the left, clearly not on this route. Hence, I renamed this route here on MP with the vaguely "P" related name. If any actual FA info shows up, let me know and I'll amend this page.

Location

Located on the low southwestern buttress of Mosaic Rock, between Independence Gully to the right, and Beastie Alley to the left.

Protection

To lead the crack on the left, a single rack of cams and nuts suffice.

Photos

Steven Reneau  
5.6
Seemed easier than other 5.7s at TP. Several TR variations of varying grades are possible below the anchors, though oak branches do get in the way a bit. But we didn't find the rope drag to be too bad. Aug 28, 2010

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