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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: Jeff Giddings 1989
Page Views: 200 total, 2/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

A nice route to practice your slab skills. Run up to the first bolt, could get some pro in the crack below the first bolt. Continue up on increasingly difficult terrain clip the second and third bolt and pull the crux. Head up on easy rock to the 4th bolt, pull an easier crux and head to the rap anchors up and left.

Location

Just right of Beastie Alley, look for a slab with a first bolt about 20 ft up. Single rope rappel into Beastie Alley.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors, can place supplemental pro if wanted.

Photos

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Thanks to the generosity of Shawn McCormack, the anchor has been replaced with two fixe SS bolts, hangers and descending ring. Also, the lead bolts have been replaced with fixe ss bolts and hangers. Apr 26, 2017
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.9
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.9
While most TP routes involve some slab climbing, this is the only 'pure' slab I tried here, and therefore pretty interesting, with a well protected slabby crux right after the third bolt. Sep 17, 2012
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
FA: Jeff Giddings 1989. Jun 1, 2009
tim naylor  
 
reachy crux, high step on positive holds, for a slab. Sep 4, 2007