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Routes in Beastie Alley

Danger Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Sanctum S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jaws S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Toad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnatural Attraction S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jay Foley, circa 1993
Page Views: 140 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 15, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Oscillate wildly between bolts, following the holds to the top. Up and left to the anchors.

Location

The first bolted line on the south side of Beastie Alley. Rappel (or lower) from shared anchors with Pony Express (5.9).

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Additional gear placements can be found, but are probably not necessary.

Photos

Paul Hassett
Aurora CO
Paul Hassett   Aurora CO
For those of you who would like to take gear before the run to the anchors, a 1 inch alien fit like a glove to protect the moves into the slot. Could likely get in a yellow as well or instead of, but otherwise that is roughly the size you need. Just FYI so you don't have to carry up multiple pieces. Nov 14, 2016
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.10b
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.10b
Interesting stemming at the start. I is probably a good idea to place some pro at the end for your second, since the anchor is a bit far to the left. Sep 17, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
You were on the correct climb, Chris. This is the 1st bolted climb on the right side after you enter the Alley.

I'd recommend continuing to the anchor shared with Pony Express, rather than lower off of a single bolt [which, as of 7/19, no longer has a quick-link or leaver biner]. This finish is run out, but easy, or bring a couple pieces of gear. Jul 11, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
I was initially confused by this location description. I guess it's the first bolted line you find on the right side of the Alley when you're walking in (not on the outside of the alley, by PE). It has a partially installed anchor at the 5th bolt at about 40-45 feet (there's an empty, open hole that was drilled 8 inches to the right of B5, and has a sleeve inside but no bolt; the 5th bolt itself currently has a brown-painted screwgate on it). ~10a/b -- w/o stemming. It has a lame runout scramble to the left at the top to get to the PE anchor. Jul 11, 2009
Jfoley  
Correct George. I climbed the FA of this route without steming, climbing directissima staying left of the bolts circa 1993. I thought the bouldery start to this variation was about 11c. I was searching for harder steeper shaded routes in TP at the time. The second time I led it I realized you could stem and zig zag between bolts at about 5.10a and felt a bit silly for not seeing it the first time. Funny how we only see what we are looking for sometimes. Feb 8, 2009
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.9
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.9
While not necessary, a cam or two up high seems like it would be appreciated. Jun 7, 2008
Mark Mathis  
 
I've incremented the bolt count to 5 in the description. Jul 22, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
You can stay left of the bolts and not stem at the beginning of this route, which makes it supposedly 5.11. Jul 18, 2007