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Routes in Main Walls

Call it "41a" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Acid Reign T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Arrowhead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block of Ages T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Catapult T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Catatonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney-Top Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claw Marks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Danzig TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elegant Monkey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Feline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Mate T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Imperial Wizard TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaguar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pegasus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pink Elephants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Realm of the Senses T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturday Night Special T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Triple Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
White Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 176 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Aug 26, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

A little-known gem. Great moves on good rock with decent protection. Scramble up on the right of a large tree then climb the center of the narrow, right-facing wall following the small crack that runs up the middle.

Location

On the right-facing wall between the Acid Reign arĂȘte and Chimney-Top Corner below a large hemlock tree. Walk-off left or right.

Protection

Standard rack. Trees at top for TR anchors, but you need a long static and it's reportedly a bit tricky to get the master point above the line since the trees are off to the right.

Photos

Spainman
  5.10c PG13
Spainman  
  5.10c PG13
I agree with Kurt it is a three stars route. I like to lead the route every year. I personally think that the route is 10c because for me, it is harder that "Feast of Fools" and "Retribution" and both are well established 5.10b routes at Gunks. The route doesn't have rests and you can't use the right wall so on leading, you have to use just fingers. It is a height dependent route so for shorter people the dynamic move is bigger. Someone broke a critical hold in one of the key sections. What a shame! Aug 27, 2016