Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975 FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails):
Page Views: 2,094 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Climb the slab to a right facing corner, over steep blocks to the large block about 3/4 up. Work your way through the block to the roof, reach up and over and claw your way up for an exciting finish.

Location

Right facing corner / left of Golden Book.

Protection

Fixed gear missing, large cams to protect the roof.

Photos

I think the route is much better when started in the corner just to the left of the slab, but the way above is how the route is presented in guidebooks. Oct 22, 2008
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
Clint Cummins   Palo Alto, CA
FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half
FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975
FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails): Al Long, Sam Streibert, 5/1976
FA(direct finish): Ken Nichols, Garry Waltman, 5/1983 May 4, 2009
Leif  
good lead. Roof protects with #4 BD. Follow the crack from left to right as it changes corners to start. Dont waste your time with the slab start. Apr 7, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
5.10 PG13
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
5.10 PG13
agree start left of slab in 5.8ish Pegasus-like corner. Way fun. Crux is gaining short slabby section after vertical about 1/2 way up. Gear is thin thereafter. I found the #4 Camalot (under roof), small wires, and micro cams crucial for protection through the second half. The roof is thrilling at 5.8 or so.

Achoring at the top was a pain -- scope it out first. I used a tree 30' to climbers right and the Pegasus boulder. Jun 13, 2016