Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Some Douche Bag, 7/1980
Page Views: 832 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mobes Mobesely on Aug 16, 2008
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

hard start(crux) with solid cam to keep you off the ground. very pumpy start all the way to the ledge 25' up. second crux is up high, a little hard to protect especially if under 6'tall. good warmup for White Fandango.

Location

this route is 15' left of White Fandango and starts below a double crack that takes you to the ledge. from there go left up dihedral to tree anchor.

Protection

normal rack, maybe an extra .75 and #1 camalot would be nice too.

Photos

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Mobes Mobesely
MDI
  5.8-
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
  5.8-
route is listed in some books as 5.6
I'd say its harder than Pegasus Aug 16, 2008
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
Clint Cummins   Palo Alto, CA
FA: Ken Nichols, 7/1980

listed as 5.7 R in the 1995 guidebook May 4, 2009
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
5.8 R
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
5.8 R
Looks like a whole bunch of rock sloughed off the beginning of the climb. Not much pro available. I'd say it earns an R rating. Jul 13, 2012
CTdave
Victor, Id.
  5.7+ R
CTdave   Victor, Id.
  5.7+ R
I don't think its harder than Pegasus but those first few moves aren't 5.6 like the CT guidebook says. It's definitely a fun start. The top is tough to protect but its easy cruising up there Aug 30, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I fell at the bottom, on lead -- broke my wrist, destroyed my back .... I had one piece in the flaring crack and made the mistake of climbing above it. Bad bad judgment. I fell from just below the ledge, and my single cam pulled. Boom, ground fall.

It was beyond my grade, and it was stupid of me. I had read this very web page, and knew it was harder than 5.6. My recollection is that is was about 5.8 moves. I deeply regret my decision to lead up the two "claw marks" when there is an easier way around. It's tough to protect and it's overhanging and kind of flared/slippery (although the feet are fine once you get stood up into the crack).

Thanks to my belay partner, and the group near us, who got me stabilized and over to the hospital in good time. Scary stuff. Ground falls are NO fun folks. I should post the x-ray photo of my reconstructed wrist. Do you know what an Erector set looks like? Jun 19, 2015