Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Trocchi/Nichols/Madara '75
Page Views: 1,543 total · 11/month
Shared By: David House on Jul 1, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This was the first route I did in CT and I returned to it several times. The dihedral is steep and pumpy and the pro is decent but strenuous to place. Stout for its grade. Stem and jam up the steep dihedral which gets easier above as the angle eases.

Location

White Fandango is one of the left-most routes on the crag. It is the obvious steep dihedral just left of the nasty looking Phantasmagoria roof.

Protection

Standard rack of small wires through med cams.

Photos

Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
 
Jim O'Brien   Branford, CT
 
The block at the top of the crux dihedrial is very loose- DON'T GRAB IT! Apr 28, 2008
Joel A
  5.9
Joel A  
  5.9
The block at the top of the crux is fine now. Not sure how it was before, but I weighted it with my 190 lbs. 3 times and it didn't budge. Jul 31, 2011
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.9+
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.9+
Block on top of the dihedral is still loose but hasn't moved in 4 years, apparently. Oct 24, 2012
Brian M
San Diego, CA
 
Brian M   San Diego, CA
 
Agreed with last 2 people, the block has been solid for the last couple of times I climbed it, weigh around 180lbs Jun 6, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Why not trundle it when the crag is empty sometime? Jun 7, 2013
I pulled on it a few years back, its in there pretty good. I did put a giant skull&crossbones on it with chalk just to scare people away from gangbanging it on TR Jun 10, 2013
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
CTdave   Victor, Id.
 
the block is solid at the top of the dihedral. I hung on it with both arms after testing it with a couple pushes and pulls. Aug 22, 2013
christopher adams
  5.9+ R
christopher adams  
  5.9+ R
Gear past the crux dihedral is very spicy because of the flare in the crack. Jun 13, 2014
GabeO
New Haven, CT
5.9 R
GabeO   New Haven, CT
5.9 R
The loose block at the top of the dihedral is gone. However there is another loose block about 10 or 12 feet above this. This is very unfortunate, since you get no gear through there, and then avoiding that next loose block is a bit cruxy. If you grab that block and it comes out you're looking at a good 15 foot fall onto the ledge, and then another 15 feet (to near groundfall). Be careful. Aug 26, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
I don't understand what all these comments are about, this climb is G rated, full of solid pro. Do it. Jun 20, 2015