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Routes in Main Walls

Call it "41a" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Acid Reign T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Arrowhead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block of Ages T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Catapult T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Catatonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney-Top Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claw Marks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Danzig TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elegant Monkey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Feline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Mate T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Imperial Wizard TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaguar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pegasus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pink Elephants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Realm of the Senses T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturday Night Special T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Triple Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
White Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Trocchi/Nichols/Madara '75
Page Views: 1,398 total, 11/month
Shared By: David Hous on Jul 1, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This was the first route I did in CT and I returned to it several times. The dihedral is steep and pumpy and the pro is decent but strenuous to place. Stout for its grade. Stem and jam up the steep dihedral which gets easier above as the angle eases.

Location

White Fandango is one of the left-most routes on the crag. It is the obvious steep dihedral just left of the nasty looking Phantasmagoria roof.

Protection

Standard rack of small wires through med cams.

Photos

Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
I don't understand what all these comments are about, this climb is G rated, full of solid pro. Do it. Jun 20, 2015
GabeO
New Haven, CT
5.9 R
GabeO   New Haven, CT
5.9 R
The loose block at the top of the dihedral is gone. However there is another loose block about 10 or 12 feet above this. This is very unfortunate, since you get no gear through there, and then avoiding that next loose block is a bit cruxy. If you grab that block and it comes out you're looking at a good 15 foot fall onto the ledge, and then another 15 feet (to near groundfall). Be careful. Aug 26, 2014
christopher adams
  5.9+ R
christopher adams  
  5.9+ R
Gear past the crux dihedral is very spicy because of the flare in the crack. Jun 13, 2014
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
CTdave   Victor, Id.
 
the block is solid at the top of the dihedral. I hung on it with both arms after testing it with a couple pushes and pulls. Aug 22, 2013
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
I pulled on it a few years back, its in there pretty good. I did put a giant skull&crossbones on it with chalk just to scare people away from gangbanging it on TR Jun 10, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Why not trundle it when the crag is empty sometime? Jun 7, 2013
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
 
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
 
Agreed with last 2 people, the block has been solid for the last couple of times I climbed it, weigh around 180lbs Jun 6, 2013
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.9+
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.9+
Block on top of the dihedral is still loose but hasn't moved in 4 years, apparently. Oct 24, 2012
Joel A
  5.9
Joel A  
  5.9
The block at the top of the crux is fine now. Not sure how it was before, but I weighted it with my 190 lbs. 3 times and it didn't budge. Jul 31, 2011
Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
 
Jim O'Brien   Branford, CT
 
The block at the top of the crux dihedrial is very loose- DON'T GRAB IT! Apr 28, 2008