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Routes in Main Walls

Acid Reign T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Arrowhead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block of Ages T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call it "41a" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Catapult T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Catatonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney-Top Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claw Marks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Danzig TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elegant Monkey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Feline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Mate T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Imperial Wizard TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaguar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pegasus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pink Elephants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Realm of the Senses T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturday Night Special T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Triple Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
White Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 790 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Jul 13, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Follow the obvious open-book corner and crack. Make sure to get a bomber piece in before the first ledge. The crux is at the top. Place pro thoughtfully to avoid dislodging potentially loose rocks in a fall. There are usually a lot of loose stones right on the edge as you top out.

Location

To the right and uphill of the cave-like overhang start for Friday the 13th, Triple Direct, and Fool's Mate. Walk off climbers trail left (or right).

Protection

Standard rack. Cams to 3". Suitable trees for toprope anchors.

Photos

Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Not sure I 100% trust the pro at the top (crux) since most of the placements are in cracks between the bedrock and blocks that don't seem to be totally solid. A hard fall on a cam might pop a block loose. Jul 13, 2012
Danmg89
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7 PG13
Danmg89   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7 PG13
I've heard there was some rockfall from the top dihedral a few years back that make the final 8-10 feet more strenuous. Lots of hollow sounding rock, hard to find confidence inspiring pro and sure to get your heart going through the top moves, but a unique climb. May 14, 2014
GabeO
New Haven, CT
5.8 PG13
GabeO   New Haven, CT
5.8 PG13
Definitely significantly harder than 5.6 if you avoid all the teetering blocks on this. Both my partner and I thought this was harder than Pegasus. Aug 26, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This is a fun lead-- Well protected, I thought -- even though I know what people are saying about the blockiness of the pro. Some spots were less bomber than others. If you've done alpine-leading where you need to judge each placement and you need to be creative, you can protect this line easily.

Kind of pumpy and steep at the top. Very good test for an established 5.6 leader. If you are still new to leading trad, be careful. It's kind of heady up there. Jun 19, 2015
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8-
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8-
Hardest 5.6 I've climbed in CT for sure. More like 5.8 -- thought I was off route! Keep on stemming. Pro is fiddly but present. Top is vertical/overhung crux. Jun 13, 2016
Honza D  
This route is very technical. Stemming, stemming and stemming again. But only this way i think i can consider it as 5.6. It is really hard 5.6 Route is well protected. I put 10 good placements on this 25m route and that's more than enough. Crux is slightly overhanging, but if you keep on stemming, you are not going to notice Sep 9, 2016

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