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Routes in Main Walls

Call it "41a" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Acid Reign T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Arrowhead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block of Ages T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Catapult T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Catatonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney-Top Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claw Marks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Danzig TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elegant Monkey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Feline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Mate T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Imperial Wizard TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaguar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pegasus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pink Elephants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Realm of the Senses T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturday Night Special T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Triple Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
White Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 627 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Apr 25, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

An intimidating, old-school 5.9 that deserves more traffic. The moves are interesting and varied. Excellent rock quality (for Cathole).

Climb up to the overhang and try to figure out the crux (next to the first overlap) before you pump out. Catch your breath and follow the crack past the other two overlaps, then step left and continue straight up the finger crack and varnish to the top.

Location

The obvious crack on the right side of the Phantasmagoria roof, just right of three distinct overlaps. Walk off left (or right).

Protection

Standard rack to 2". Trees at top suitable for TR but you need long static or webbing.

Photos

Definitely needs more traffic. A three star route. The first roof and crack to the traverse around the second roof is a solid 10. The crack up to the top with the small final roof is spectacular and 5.8 maybe 5.8+. Overall my favorite route on this crag so far. The crack at the top is like dessert after the pump fest down low. Nice holds when you need them. Nov 4, 2017
JIncillo
  5.10b/c PG13
JIncillo  
  5.10b/c PG13
Old school 5.9 would be right. My guess is years of freeze/thaw cycle may have changed this route. The start to this thing is no easier than a solid 10. Brought my rack thinking I would lead it. The first safe piece of gear is close to 20 ft off the deck. After that the gear isn't so bad, but after the choosy middle section it is very sustained climbing on the second face. May 2, 2015
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
I don't think this route gets the attention it deserves. Much better than Mind Bender Direct IMHO. Apr 25, 2014