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Routes in Garden Cliffs

A Garden Called Peace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anaphylactic Shock T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackberry Jam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Black T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Community S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Criss Cross Applesauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutting Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daring to Fly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death of Koschei the Deathless, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fertile Crescent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fight Club (Round Two) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom Project S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
John Henry's Hammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Littlest Birds (Closed Project) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Empire of Dirt (Closed Project) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Secret Garden S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Closed Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ovulation Send-sation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rain Shadow S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Revenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seraphim Nachash, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snug as a Snail S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stasis Chamber, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vine (Open Project), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
Wildlings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Micah Klesick
Page Views: 899 total · 29/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Feb 9, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the 5 star route here and a must do!
Climb up good holds on the right side of the "cave" to a large hold about 30' up. Pull a quick cruxy move, and shake out. Work up to a high clip and then figure the unique crux out, requiring both technique, power and compression. Get a final shake on the jug, and then finish the last pumpy moves to the anchor. A surprisingly sustained route, despite the several good holds and (mostly) vertical terrain.

Location

third route to the left.

Protection

8 bolts plus two for the anchor. Rap Rings on the anchor.

Photos

Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11d
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11d
Willamette Valley climbers get stoked! A proud line up the beautify prow. Powerful (dynamic?) move down low then an awesome techy crux section up high moving through sidepull features which generates a good pump for the slightly easier run to the anchors. In warmer weather conditions are best in the morning when the trees keep the route mostly shaded, and in the final hour before dark. Afternoon is a full sun roast. Apr 21, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
  5.11d
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
  5.11d
Finally sent this beautiful line. Cleaning the 5.8 revealed a nice side pull and made the ramp much better to kneebar off of moving past the third bolt. The top was still very pumpy and reachy. Sep 29, 2016
A classic at an crag and a fitness test for the grade.

Fantastic stuff here. Jul 10, 2017
Micah Elconin
  5.11d
Micah Elconin  
  5.11d
The clipping jug at the last bolt before the chains is very loose. Will likely blow soon. I've put an x on it for now. Doesn't look like it will take glue unless someone is willing to drill out behind it to apply. Not sure how developers feel. Definitely dangerous in current state. May 6, 2018
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
 
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
 
You're welcome to do whatever is needed, I'm moving out of state and probably won't ever make it back to the crag sadly. May 6, 2018
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
  5.11d
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
  5.11d
I removed the broken hold at the top of the route. I was hoping to save it. It came off really easily, but it fractured into a bunch of pieces. There is still a little bit of a hold there that might keep it at about the same difficulty. May 26, 2018

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