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Areas in The Garden

Garden Boulders, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Garden Cliffs 6 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 30
Elevation: 992 ft
GPS: 44.442, -122.568 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 49,861 total · 341/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 23, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Known to Willamette Valley locals for years, The Garden is one of the state's best bouldering areas. Tucked away in the forest near Sweet Home are a few collections of gigantic boulders with many great problems and potential for many more.

The area is generally separated into two areas: the main area and the Armageddon area. The main area is more developed although there is a ton of potential at both. There is some sport climbing here as well on a few 30-50ft. cliffs.

The rock in this area is generally quite good. There are lots of slopers and the problems are similar to those found up at Squamish. The cruxes of the problems tend to come towards the top due to the sloping rounded nature of many of the boulders.

Be sure to bring some sturdy brushes when climbing here-- there is a ton of moss on the boulders and due to seeing relatively little traffic they get overgrown quickly. Somewhere underneath all the moss there are undoubtedly plenty of yet to be discovered problems.

Getting There

Drive 3.4 miles down Quratzville Rd from the Junction with 20. You will pass several forest roads on the left just before you come to the boulders. The Boulders will be somewhat hidden in trees on your left. There is a large opening about 100 yards past them with a cliff at the back of it to indicate you have gone to far. A pullout on the right about 100 yards before the boulders is the best parking. Please park completely off of the road. The trail leaves Quartzville Rd just below the boulders and is fairly obvious.

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0-1 4+
V1 5
Gumby Slab
V2+ 5+
V3-4 6A+
Swollen Member
V4 6B
The Ear
V5 6C
The Siren
V8 7B
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Garden Called Peace
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank)
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My Secret Garden
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Daring to Fly
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Seraphim Nachash
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fight Club (Round Two)
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mole Garden Boulders
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Gumby Slab Garden Boulders
V1 5 Boulder
Trust Garden Boulders
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Swollen Member Garden Boulders
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
The Ear Garden Boulders
V4 6B Boulder
The Siren Garden Boulders
V5 6C Boulder
Octernal Garden Boulders
V8 7B Boulder
A Garden Called Peace Garden Cliffs
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty… Garden Cliffs
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
My Secret Garden Garden Cliffs
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Scorpion Hitchhikers To… Garden Cliffs
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Daring to Fly Garden Cliffs
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Seraphim Nachash Garden Cliffs
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Wildlings Garden Cliffs
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Fight Club (Round Two) Garden Cliffs
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Garden »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
This area is on private land be respectful. Place bolts by hand, dont leave fixed ropes. As of 4/10 ago someone had left their rope fixed in the main area for a while. If your cleaning, at least clean your rope when you leave.

Also dont place bolts where they dont need to be, they will probably wind up getting chopped. Apr 28, 2006
question: is anyone aware of a guide book for Oregon bouldering locations (ie The Garden and Carver)??? I've checked local climbing gyms and the REI's around the area to find a possible Oregon bouldering book, have havent found anything...... Aug 1, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
There is a new bouldering guide for Carver coming out soon (it's done, and it should be released in the next month or so), but I'm not aware of a guide for all of Oregon's bouldering areas. Aug 1, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I'll approve the comments regarding the "real" names and grades for these problems, with one piece of Administrator advice:

If you write an "underground" guidebook, don't get all annoyed when people don't know about it and follow its conventions. Lots of people climb at The Garden who are totally unaware of any guidebooks, especially undergound/secret/low-profile ones.. Jun 29, 2010
Eric Brown
Corvallis, oregon
Eric Brown   Corvallis, oregon
So....I'm not sure that this whole naming thing really matters too much. I'm thinking one of the cool things about this place is that the problems are frequently reinvented as they get done, moss over, then get cleaned and done again. I always sort of thought a guide would screw that up. That said i do have some old topos if somebody has an interest.
eb Jul 4, 2010
alpine glower
Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
alpine glower   Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
Well Mr PDub Trad, has forgotten to leave out a few MAJOR details I told him over on CascadeClimbers.com... Since I dont want hide like Mr. PDub, My name is Douglas Foley, I climbed at what he calls "The Garden" exstensivly through out the late 70's and early 80's. We called it The Enchanted Forest. We cleaned and scrubbed hundreds of problems, some I would say were quite hard for the time. So don't listen to his psyco diatribe. I made it clear to him I have no desire to help him in his quest due too his extremly poor attititude but if there is any one else out there that cares to ask me any questions about the good old days in the Enchanted Forest feel free to contact me. I'm trying to remember the few problems we acctually named, most of these being the hard ones. Jul 26, 2010
Orion Watson
Seattle, WA
Orion Watson   Seattle, WA
I agree with eb, route names and fa are not so important here. Boulder problems in the NW are perennially fa'd. There is one rule though that all must abide - all problems existing or to be scrubbed are V2.

Orion Sep 1, 2010
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
Has anyone created a guide book for this place? It might be nice to have. Apr 26, 2012
I'd be interested in a guide to this area as well. Any news? May 17, 2012
GalenCP   buubs
Hey there, I'm interested in contributing to a guide, I've climbed many of the problems/ have potentially FA'd some hard stuff w/ confirmation from the Old strong dudes here in corvallis. My email is Galen.crockett.peterson@gmail.com I'd be down to meet up sometime. I have a large volume of information in hard copy. Nov 6, 2012
Does anyone know what the hanging arete/prow about 30 yards up the hill from Octernal(?) is? It has a diamond shape and is very aesthetic. One of the best looking lines there. It looked freshly cleaned early in the summer. I wasn't able to send, it seemed quite hard (double digits I'm guessing) from the sit. Nov 17, 2012
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
Does anyone know what this problem is? It is possibly the same one described in the above comment. This problem is located to the right when looking at The Good V3, at the base of a long low-angle slab and near the edge of some dense forest. Is this Cavebound Squirrel?
Jun 24, 2013
I think it is Cave Bound Squirrel (or The Guillotine?). I sent it a few weeks ago. I'm clueless when it comes to grades but it seemed somewhere in the V8 - 10 range. Jul 8, 2013
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
I was unable to find this area. After driving the 4.3 miles from the turn off, I didn't see any dirt roads uphill. I found one road uphill at about 4.6 miles that appeared to be a logging road. It had a sign 'No unauthorized vehicles', so I walked up the road for a few hundred yards, but didn't see any sign of boulders. I assume the 50m means 50 meters? Anyone have some directions that could help me out? Jul 23, 2013
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
Please see the photo I just attached to the main page. Match this to a view on Google Maps if necessary. The boulders are easily visible from the main road if you look up at the right time. Jul 24, 2013
There is a guidebook, it's an underground one that floats around the locals at oregon state universities climbing gyms Sep 4, 2014
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I'm pretty sure that the boulders are about 3.4 miles from the highway. They are quite obvious in the woods uphill from the river with a small 2 car parking space just after them. May 5, 2016
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
I left a guidebook to the bouldering areas under a boulder about 8ft directly opposite of Octurnal, it should be easy to spot. The guidebook is kind of a piece of shit, but it might be useful to someone unfamiliar with the area. If you don't know where Octurnal is, approaching from the road its in a small grove on the far side of the Methlab Boulder (the 30' tall prow that kind of looks like pride rock). May 29, 2017
Great climbing at the cliffs. I wouldn't recommend it for new climbers. The easiest route, 5.8, could also be a 5.10. Area needs cleaning and more climbers. Lots of potential. Jun 18, 2017

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