Elevation: 790 ft
GPS: 44.441, -122.575 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 110,916 total · 641/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 23, 2006 with improvements by Jayson Nissen
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Known to Willamette Valley locals for years, The Garden is one of the state's best bouldering areas. Tucked away in the forest near Sweet Home are a few collections of gigantic boulders with many great problems and potential for many more.

The area is generally separated into two areas: the main area and the Armageddon area. The main area is more developed although there is a ton of potential at both. There is some sport climbing here as well on a few 30-50ft. cliffs.

The rock in this area is generally quite good. There are lots of slopers and the problems are similar to those found up at Squamish. The cruxes of the problems tend to come towards the top due to the sloping rounded nature of many of the boulders.

Be sure to bring some sturdy brushes when climbing here-- there is a ton of moss on the boulders and due to seeing relatively little traffic they get overgrown quickly. Somewhere underneath all the moss there are undoubtedly plenty of yet to be discovered problems.

Getting There

Drive 3.4 miles down Quratzville Rd from the Junction with 20. You will pass several forest roads on the left just before you come to the boulders. The Boulders will be somewhat hidden in trees on your left. There is a large opening about 100 yards past them with a cliff at the back of it to indicate you have gone to far. A pullout on the right about 100 yards before the boulders is the best parking. Please park completely off of the road. The trail leaves Quartzville Rd just below the boulders and is fairly obvious.

98 Total Climbs

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Location: The Garden Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 12
Gumby Slab
Boulder
V2 5+
 15
Trust
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 13
Swollen Member
Boulder
V5 6C
 16
The Siren
Boulder
V6 7A
 4
Ice Cubes Shiny Jerry Curl
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 18
Octernal
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
A Garden Called Peace
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
Slithering Skink
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
My Secret Garden
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet…
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
The Seraphim Nachash
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Criss Cross Applesauce
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Daring to Fly
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Fight Club (Round Two)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
My Empire of Dirt
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gumby Slab Garden Boulders
 12
V1 5 Boulder
Trust Garden Boulders
 15
V2 5+ Boulder
Swollen Member Garden Boulders
 13
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
The Siren Garden Boulders
 16
V5 6C Boulder
Ice Cubes Shiny Jerry Curl Garden Boulders
 4
V6 7A Boulder
Octernal Garden Boulders
 18
V7-8 7B Boulder
A Garden Called Peace Garden Cliffs
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slithering Skink Garden Cliffs
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
My Secret Garden Garden Cliffs
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Scorpion Hitchhikers To… Garden Cliffs
 19
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Seraphim Nachash Garden Cliffs
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Criss Cross Applesauce Garden Cliffs
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Daring to Fly Garden Cliffs
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Fight Club (Round Two) Garden Cliffs
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
My Empire of Dirt Garden Cliffs
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Garden »

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