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Routes in The Garden Boulders

All Bernd Down V8 7B
All Bernd Up V10 7C+
Bitchslap V2 5+
Brewmaster V3 6A
Ear, The V4 6B
Garden Groove T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Garden Variety V7 7A+
Gumby Slab V1 5
Heisenberg V9 7C
Into The Light V6 7A
Leary's Lunge V9 7C
Leave it to Jesus V5 6C PG13
Locksmith, The V4 6B
Mole V0-1 4+
Octernal V8 7B
Octernal (Direct Variation) V8 7B
Philanthropy V4+ 6B+
Showboat V1 5
Siren (High Variation), The V3 6A
Siren, The V5 6C
Slabarific V3 6A
Swollen Member V3-4 6A+
Teen Spirit V2 5+
Trust V2+ 5+
Unknown (entrance boulder) V2-3 5+
White Fang V2-3 5+
into the light assis V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Philip Scoles
Page Views: 2,933 total, 27/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

One of the most popular boulders in the garden. Start low in the cave, left hand sloper and right hand on a small crimp SDS. Grunge your way up a hard v7/8 to a small heel hook rest. Then traverse left on a rail system to the left most side of the boulder, traverse around 20 ft to the left after completing the initial cave.
If you start standing with both hands on the large undercling, the line goes at about V5/6.

One of the 5 hard lines left at sweethome.

Location

In the very center of the garden, you will pass a large tree and enter a cave like area surrounded by boulders. Octenal is on the backside of this huge house sized boulder. One of the best a sweethome.

Protection

Pads, at least 2 or 3 and a spotter.

Photos

Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  V8
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  V8
This route feels like V7/8 if you use the low starting holds. Almost every move is easier than the last so you can still have a lot of fun working the higher parts of the problem even if you can climb the grade. Sep 7, 2016
cstorms
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
thanks anewton Apr 13, 2014
anewton  
The original name for the problem - Tom's Psychedelic Trip - is graded as V8, which is still a bit inflated if you ask me.

I think it goes more at V6/7.

Cstorms, he's using the right starting holds in the video. Terrible left hand and ok right crimp. Worst holds on the boulder by far. Jan 27, 2014
cstorms
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
I found this video on youtube.. is this guy (@1:30) using the right start holds?

youtube.com/watch?v=ZNvSBv5… Dec 5, 2013
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
Those holds are there, just lower than the big undercling by a few moves. They are reachable if you are sitting on the ground. While I haven't sent yet, this version feels like a hard V7 to me. Hopefully I'll get back there soon to finish it and get some pictures of the start. Jun 20, 2013
Baghby  
I never really found the sloper left hand or the right hand crimp. We started from the really good double under cling - to a big left hand move up to the lip. This makes the problem around hard v5 easy v6. I think the v9 rating is a bit exaggerated. Awesome route though!! May 8, 2013