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Routes in Garden Cliffs

A Garden Called Peace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anaphylactic Shock T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackberry Jam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Black T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Community S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Criss Cross Applesauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutting Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daring to Fly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death of Koschei the Deathless, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fertile Crescent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fight Club (Round Two) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom Project S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
John Henry's Hammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Littlest Birds (Closed Project) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Empire of Dirt (Closed Project) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Secret Garden S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Closed Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ovulation Send-sation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rain Shadow S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Revenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seraphim Nachash, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snug as a Snail S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stasis Chamber, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vine (Open Project), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
Wildlings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Description

This cliff lies about two hundred feet north on Quartzville Drive from the bouldering area. The cliff is 30 to 70 feet tall. Most of the routes are sport climbs with high first bolts meant to be stick clipped. As of 9/25/16 there are 23 bolted routes. Two of these are open projects, three are closed projects. There are three trad routes. None of the climbs can be accessed as TR routes, though that may change, and there is one route under 5.10, which may also change.

There is a community stick clip at the cliff and a community set of hedge trimmers. Feel free to use them both. The battle with the blackberries never ends.

There is also a guidebook that is updated at the cliff in a crack, hopefully it is obvious.

Routes with ropes hanging on them or red ribbon tied to the first bolt are closed projects. Please respect the closure until the routes are listed here, not all of the closed projects are listed on Mountain Project but all of the open ones are.

Feel free to contact the route developers via MP.

Getting There

Behind the Garden Cliffs. Trail is to the east, about 80 yards down the road from a small pullout parking spot on the cliff side.
Here is a link to a GPS Track that you can view, or even download to your phone and follow.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Garden Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Community
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
A Garden Called Peace
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Nest
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank)
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
My Secret Garden
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl…
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Scorpion Revenge
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Seraphim Nachash
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Criss Cross Applesauce
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
Snug as a Snail
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Daring to Fly
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Wildlings
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Fertile Crescent
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Ovulation Send-sation
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
Fight Club (Round Two)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Community
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
A Garden Called Peace
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nest
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty…
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
My Secret Garden
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Scorpion Hitchhikers To…
 12
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Scorpion Revenge
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Seraphim Nachash
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Criss Cross Applesauce
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Snug as a Snail
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Daring to Fly
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wildlings
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Fertile Crescent
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ovulation Send-sation
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fight Club (Round Two)
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Garden Cliffs »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I think we should rename the cliff, "The Garden Animals Cliff".

This place is loaded with life: snakes, bees, wasps, scorpions, mice, bats, hummingbirds, blue tailed skinks. Apr 22, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Also mosquitos...bug spray should be part of the standard early season rack! Apr 28, 2016
Went here recently and could not find the way back to the cliff, ended up just bouldering because that's all we could find haha. Can anyone give us directions to the cliff from the bouldering area? Jul 25, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
You walk past the boulders on the road for 100 yards, and then the trail is to the left. You can see the cliff from the road. Jul 25, 2016
Thanks for the help Micah! Hopefully the crew and I can find it this Sunday when we head back. Jul 26, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
An updated pdf guide for the area can be found at:

dropbox.com/sh/0cnzxuuqe15r…

It includes directions and topos. I hope to keep updating it as more routes go in on the cliff. Aug 4, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
For the traveling climber, abundant primitive roadside camping exists beginning about 20 minutes up Quartzville Rd. from the crag, with sites getting better the further up you go. Unfortunately trash appears to be a problem in some of these so if you feel like doing community service bring an extra garbage bag with you. There are many excellent swimming holes along the Wild and Scenic Quartzville Creek as well, making for a perfect afternoon chill out after a morning of sending at the Garden. Aug 29, 2016
Michael Swanson   Oregon
Climbed here yesterday, had an awesome time. The style is very similar to the Garden boulders. I'm sure most people who have bouldered at the Garden have looked over at these cliffs and wondered... kudos to the developers for putting up some fun and engaging sport climbing up there. Aug 31, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
Some one cut the extra lengths off of several of the fixed ropes that have been used to put up most of these routes. It was a very odd and random act of vandalism that didn't make any sense to me, but will make it more costly and time consuming to continue developing the routes. If anyone knows anything about this I would obviously like to know. If anyone has concerns about any of the development at the Garden Cliff I am happy to talk about it. Despite this annoyance I had a fantastic day climbing and am pretty sure that the cliff just needs 24 hours for enough routes to be dry and climbable. Feb 12, 2017
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
There is no longer a community stick clip. Someone stole the stick clip for the second time. Hopefully, it will be returned. Dec 11, 2017
Someone took a top rope anchor that was set up on the 5.13 open project...probably went out of their way from Slithering Skink to grab it. Please return it! Jul 5, 2018 · Lost & Found

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