Garden Cliffs Rock Climbing
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This series of cliffs lies about three hundred feet north on Quartzville Drive from the bouldering area. The cliff is 30 to 70 feet tall and can be seen from Quartzville Drive through a marsh of blackberries just north of the boulders. The cliff consists of three areas separated by gullies: the Garden Cliff, the Fairy Tale Wall, and the Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Most of the established climbs are on the Garden Cliff, which is the first cliff that you come to.
Parking: There is a small parking area directly across from the trail. If people park at an angle it can hold six cars. Parallel parking drops it down to three cars.
Toilet: You'll pass several opportunities to poop as you drive to the cliff, use one of them. Please do not create a new trail to find some privacy for your needs. Do not pee next to the cliff as it overhangs enough that much of it is dry all year long.
Most of the routes are sport climbs with high first bolts meant to be stick clipped.
Toproping. Two routes on the Fairy Tale Wall can be accessed via a 5-easy offwidth. A Garden Called Peace (10a) provides access to toproping several other climbs. John Henry's Hammer (10c/d) provides access to toprope several harder climbs.
Trails: Please stay on the trails and try to keep all of your stuff in worn areas. Do not step on any vegetation. The developers have worked hard to build sustainable trails that minimally impact the land. There are several zones of flat ground that are nice spaces to hang out in and organize gear in: Scorpions, Fight Club, Slithering, Nachash, the ledge of 5.10s, and way out left on Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Use these spaces and don't create any new ones. Do not use hammocks or damage any trees in any way. The trees make climbing in the summer possible. There is a community set of hedge trimmers and the battle with the blackberries never ends. Please trim the blackberries back from the trail. The clippers have now walked off.
There is a guidebook that is updated at the cliff in a crack. It comes and goes.
Routes with ropes hanging on them or red ribbon tied to the first bolt are closed projects. Please respect the closure until the routes are listed here, not all of the closed projects are listed on Mountain Project, but all of the open ones are.
Feel free to contact the route developers via MP.
The Garden Cliff
This is the first cliff that you come to, has the majority of climbs, and has the best climbs. Many shady climbs throughout the day.
About one-third of the routes will be dry 24 hours after it has rained in the winter. Several of the climbs are wet well into the summer.
The Fairy Tale Wall
The second cliff with only a handful of rather short climbs, but maybe a few more to come. Not much shade.
The Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome
The third cliff, currently under development with a handful of routes. No shade. Right of the waterfall is the Cabbage Patch, left is Johnny Cash's Thunderdome.
Here is a link to a GPS Track that you can view, or even download to your phone and follow.
Classic Climbing Routes at Garden Cliffs
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