Elevation: 841 ft
GPS: 44.441, -122.573 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,415 total · 649/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Feb 8, 2016 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

This series of cliffs lies about three hundred feet north on Quartzville Drive from the bouldering area. The cliff is 30 to 70 feet tall and can be seen from Quartzville Drive through a marsh of blackberries just north of the boulders. The cliff consists of three areas separated by gullies: the garden cliff, the fairy tale wall, and the cabbage patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Most of the established climbs are on the garden cliff, which is the first cliff that you come to.

Parking: There is a small parking area directly across from the trail. If people park at an angle it can hold six cars. Parallel parking drops it down to three cars.

Toilet: You'll pass several opportunities to poop as you drive to the cliff, use one of them. Please do not create a new trail to find some privacy for your needs. Do not pee next to the cliff. It overhangs enough that much of it is dry all year long.

Most of the routes are sport climbs with high first bolts meant to be stick clipped.

Top roping. Two routes on the Fairy tale wall can be accessed via a 5easy off width. A Garden Called Peace (10a) provides access to top roping several other climbs. John Henry's Hammer (10c/d) provides access to top rope several harder climbs.

Trails: Please stay on the trails and try to keep all of your stuff in worn areas. Do not step on any vegetation. The developers have worked hard to build sustainable trails that minimally impact the land. There are several zones of flat ground that are nice spaces to hang out in and organize gear in: Scorpions, Fight Club, Slithering, Nachash, the ledge of 5.10s and way out left on Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Use these spaces and don't create any new ones. Do not use any hammock or damage any trees in any way. The trees make climbing in the summer possible. There is a community set of hedge trimmers and the battle with the blackberries never ends. Please trim the blackberries back from the trail. The clippers have now walked off.

There is a guidebook that is updated at the cliff in a crack. It comes and goes.

Routes with ropes hanging on them or red ribbon tied to the first bolt are closed projects. Please respect the closure until the routes are listed here, not all of the closed projects are listed on Mountain Project but all of the open ones are.

Feel free to contact the route developers via MP.

The Garden Cliff
  This is the first cliff that you come to,  has the majority of climbs, and has the best climbs. Many shady climbs throughout the day.
  About one-third of the routes will be dry 24 hours after it has rained in the winter. Several of the climbs are wet well into the summer.
The Fairy Tale Wall
  The second cliff with only a handful of rather short climbs, but maybe a few more to come. Not much shade.
The Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome
  The third cliff, currently under development with a handful of routes. No shade. Right of the waterfall is the Cabbage Patch, left is Johnny Cash's Thunderdome.

Getting There

Behind the Garden Cliffs. Trail is to the east, about 80 yards down the road from a small pullout parking spot on the cliff side.
Here is a link to a GPS Track that you can view, or even download to your phone and follow.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Garden Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
A Garden Called Peace
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Nest
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
Slithering Skink
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
My Secret Garden
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet…
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
The Littlest Birds
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Strange Fruit
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
The Seraphim Nachash
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Criss Cross Applesauce
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Daring to Fly
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Fertile Crescent
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Ovulation Send-sation
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Fight Club (Round Two)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
My Empire of Dirt
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Butterfly Effect
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Garden Called Peace
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nest
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Slithering Skink
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
My Secret Garden
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Scorpion Hitchhikers To…
 19
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Littlest Birds
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Strange Fruit
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Seraphim Nachash
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Criss Cross Applesauce
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Daring to Fly
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Fertile Crescent
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ovulation Send-sation
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fight Club (Round Two)
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
My Empire of Dirt
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Butterfly Effect
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Garden Cliffs »

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