Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jayson Nissen
Page Views: 162 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jayson Nissen on Sep 27, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is an extension to castle black. Climb Castle Black through the crux then traverse right to the bolt line. The first bolt is too high so I have to pull up onto the next ledge, step over and clip it then downclimb back down to make the traverse to the arete. There may be a couple of different ways to do the traverse. I had to use some pretty small holds, but the rock is forgivingly low angle. Climb up the arete trending right. The anchors are hard to see and to the right of the last bolt but the holds to clip them are huge.

The R rating comes from the crux for Castle Black. I have tapped the ledge falling on it and a less than great belay could pretty easily result in a broken ankle. I just preplace a cam from above after climbing Naschash. It is pretty easy to lower from the Naschash anchors, walk across the Castle Black ledge and clip into the anchor, then lower down and place the cam. Either climb back up to clean Naschash or lower and pull the rope.

Location

Goes right from about 3/4 the way up castle black.

Protection

Single rack for Castle Black (0.4 to a 2 camalot with extended slings), 5 draws for Littlest Birds. Rap rings at the top.

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