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Routes in Garden Cliffs

A Garden Called Peace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anaphylactic Shock T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackberry Jam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Black T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Community S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Criss Cross Applesauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutting Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daring to Fly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Death of Koschei the Deathless , The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fertile Crescent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fight Club (Round Two) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom Project S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
John Henry's Hammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Littlest Birds (Closed Project) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Secret Garden S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Closed Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ovulation Send-sation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Shadow S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Scorpion Revenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seraphim Nachash, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snug as a Snail S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stasis Chamber, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vine (Open Project), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
Wildlings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jayson Nissen
Page Views: 118 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jayson Nissen on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This is the furthest left bolted route on the wall. It starts just left of A Garden Called Peace. Make reachy and technical moves upward using the vertical moon shaped edge. Move slightly right of the dirty gully and continue up and left, passing by the Hive. I am hoping to shore up the dirt in the gully somehow so that the route stays clean. To clip the last bolt on the outside face I go right and make a long reach to clip it then make the fairly easy traverse to the left and around the arette. You could bail out right here very easily. I hug the arette to clip the next bolt then move back left to climb the slab to the top.

Protection

10 draws and an epipen if you are allergic to bees.

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Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
 
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
 
The climbing on the route is very engaging and enjoyable. Unfortunately the dirty gully detracts from it, but I hope to deal with that. Pulling around the arette reminds me of alpine climbing, but does add some risk to the climb. The nice thing is that if you don't like it over there you can always bail over to the anchors on the big ledge. Lastly the anchor bolts are carbon steel and I will replace them in the next few months with stainless. I ran out of SS bolts and needed to put in an anchor to clean the route. Aug 4, 2016

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