Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Piarulli
Page Views: 270 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on Jul 4, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Charge up the easy finger crack to the ledge and lay siege to the steep corner above. Cool stem moves on good rock lead to a powerful crux requiring a commiting reach. It is possible to tap the ledge falling from the crux, so place your gear well and have an attentive belay. From there gallavant up the crack to a final mantle onto the ledge.

This section of the cliff seeps heavily and is the last area to dry in the summer. As of July 4 there was only one slimy hold but not really an issue. As with most routes here it's a good idea to bring a brush along, especially if you might be the first one up the route for the season.

Location

Left side of the cliff at the lowest point. R facing corner in the impossibly black rock.

Protection

Cams to #2, a few extra finger size pieces. Rap rings at the anchor.

Photos

Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
 
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
 
I finally got this clean. On my first attempts, I lightly hit the ledge when I didn't make through the crux. So, I preplaced gear above the crux by getting to the anchors from Naschash. A single cam and double length sling worked pretty well. Now that I have the sequence dialed I am looking forward to working the Littlest Birds Project. Sep 19, 2018
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
 
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
 
After discussing with the FA. Bolts were added to this route. Hopefully, the convenience will allow for more traffic that will keep the route clean. The route is no longer R rated if you clip the bolts. Oct 4, 2018