Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jayson Nissen
Page Views: 579 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jayson Nissen on Mar 3, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

After I climbed this route my wife told me about the discover and disposal of a scorpion that was climbing on the towel in the bathroom. I imagine it rode all the way home in the cuff of my pants. The scorpions in the area are not really toxic, 1 out of 5, and seldom sting. This is the line left of the tight corner, as of right now it is the second climb you come to. It starts under the small roof and goes up the left facing crescent feature. The crux is at the third bolt which is best clipped from the jug above and left of the bolt. The bolt just below the ledge is a tough clip from the jugs but not too bad from the holds under it. I intend to move the first bolt left because stick clipping it sets up the potential for a pendulum fall into the roof.

Location

The second bolted route that you come to on the cliff. There are rap rings at the top of the climb that can be lowered off of or rappelled from.

Protection

Bolts. Rap rings on top.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.11a
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.11a
Fun route, mostly cruiser 5.10 climbing, with the exception of a tricky crux midway up. This is currently the crag warm-up. Mar 5, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
5 bolts to anchors. Moving the first bolt a foot or two left seemed like a good idea. Great rock, a solid crux halfway up, plus a powerful bit above that. Standing up to the anchors felt exciting, but safe. Apr 6, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
  5.11-
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
  5.11-
I make the sidepull move up to clip the anchors with an extended draw then step back down to clip the rope through the draw. The holds around the anchors are not the buckets I always hope to find by a set of chains. Apr 7, 2016
Tom Holschuh
Idaho Falls
  5.11b
Tom Holschuh   Idaho Falls
  5.11b
I thought this was as hard or harder than My Secret Garden, on the far left side of the cliff. The footholds near the crux on Scorpion are much more delicate, which forces more specific foot placements with less secure handholds. I agree with previous posts, the holds near the anchors aren't jugs and create some excitement at the end. Overall, fun route and definitely worth doing. Nov 10, 2016