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Routes in Garden Cliffs

A Garden Called Peace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anaphylactic Shock T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackberry Jam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Black T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Community S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Criss Cross Applesauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutting Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daring to Fly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Death of Koschei the Deathless , The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fertile Crescent (closed project) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fight Club (Round Two) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom Project S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
John Henry's Hammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
K's Project (Closed) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Littlest Birds (Closed Project) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Secret Garden S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Closed Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Rain Shadow S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Scorpion Revenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seraphim Nachash, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snug as a Snail S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stasis Chamber, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vine (Open Project), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
Wildlings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jayson Nissen
Page Views: 162 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jayson Nissen on May 30, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a trad route that starts on the right side of the Scorpion's Revenge pillar, heads right up the crack system, then steps left and up the little corner. The crux is the sloper moves in the move left, though the top out is quite technical to get high enough to get to the good hold.
This route has been heavily cleaned. I worked hard to make sure that dirt won't seep down it in the rain but it will take a while to get all of the dust and grit off of the top. Expect dust and bring a brush.

Location

Starts on the right side of the Scorpions Revenge pillar. Climb right onto the treed ledge. The line is quite obvious due to the scrubbing it has received. An anchor can be set up in crack at the top of the climb. Use the anchors on Scorpion's Revenge to get down. I don't recommend using them for TR'ing the route.

Protection

Single Rack to #2. A #2 and .5 for the anchor up top.

Photos

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Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.10c/d
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.10c/d
Nice work unearthing this worthwhile trad line at the Garden! Fairly sustained climbing that uses a few jams plus lots of sloper and edge climbing around the crack. Felt on the 10+ side of 5.10, plus beware of the ledge fall potential in the middle section. Bring a nut tool to dig out the nut placement protecting the final pull onto the ledge, I didn't and it made the topout a little heads up. Jun 26, 2016