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Routes in Garden Cliffs

A Garden Called Peace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anaphylactic Shock T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackberry Jam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Black T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Community S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Criss Cross Applesauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutting Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daring to Fly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Death of Koschei the Deathless , The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fertile Crescent S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fight Club (Round Two) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom Project S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
John Henry's Hammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Littlest Birds (Closed Project) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Secret Garden S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Closed Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ovulation Send-sation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Shadow S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Scorpion Revenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seraphim Nachash, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snug as a Snail S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stasis Chamber, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vine (Open Project), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
Wildlings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kevin Piarulli
Page Views: 363 total · 18/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on Aug 29, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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What

Another short but sweet Garden route. Overcome the first 5 feet of choss and enjoy powerful and delicate climbing past some fun holds the rest of the way. Best in the morning; the route catches sun in the afternoon.

Where

Left of Slithering Skink, goes up the steep hanging dihedral.

How

5 bolts to anchors. Like most routes here, a stick clip is advised.

Photos

Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
For me, this route climbed like several powerful V2-V4 boulder moves with jug rests in between. Would have been very hard to onsight. The bolting is very comfortable. I started a bit more to the right off of the best jugs so that I could avoid most of the rotten rock. I found the crux to be moving just around the first bolt off of this small crimp and up to a jug. I found a nice kneebar just below the third bolt before some harder moves on interesting pinches moving to a jug. Easier but thoughtful climbing from there. I found the route to be about the same difficulty as Learning to Fly, but less pumpy, much easier than Snug as a Snail,and slightly harder than Naschash. Looking forward to climbing it more as a part of my routine. Sep 18, 2016
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  5.11d
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  5.11d
Its hard to compare this route to Naschash and Learning to Fly since its so short and physical. Its clearly easier to Fight Club, but I don't have a great feel for how either route should be graded. They both feel easier than the low 5.12s at smith to me, but both routes also complement my strengths very well. Sep 29, 2016
Micah Elconin 1
  5.11d
Micah Elconin 1  
  5.11d
Felt like soft 11d to me. There's some relief between each boulder problem but boulders may not recover well at them. Aug 7, 2017

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