Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, 2012
Page Views: 131 total · 4/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 3, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This overlooked route makes for a good warmup, once you've done all the standard lode warmups. A thin low angle start with some engaging moves leads up to a standing no hands rest. From the rest break right (the correct bolt is difficult to see until you pull around the corner, but it is easy to correct if needed) pulling difficult moves that may be difficult to decipher. Unfortunately the crux is quickly over and the anchors arrive.

Location

On the rightside of Buckeye Buttress. Shares the start with "Leftomaniac" before breaking right at the top. To the right is the low angle arete of "Ball Scratcher"

Protection

Bolts to Anchors, 1 fixed draw facilitates cleaning.

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