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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, 2012
Page Views: 84 total, 4/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 3, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

This overlooked route makes for a good warmup, once you've done all the standard lode warmups. A thin low angle start with some engaging moves leads up to a standing no hands rest. From the rest break right (the correct bolt is difficult to see until you pull around the corner, but it is easy to correct if needed) pulling difficult moves that may be difficult to decipher. Unfortunately the crux is quickly over and the anchors arrive.

Location

On the rightside of Buckeye Buttress. Shares the start with "Leftomaniac" before breaking right at the top. To the right is the low angle arete of "Ball Scratcher"

Protection

Bolts to Anchors, 1 fixed draw facilitates cleaning.

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