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Routes in (1) Buckeye Buttress
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Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rug Muncher! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.64595, -83.71153 |
| FA: | Dustin Stephens, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,147 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Dec 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
This overlooked route makes for a good warmup, once you've done all the standard lode warmups. A thin low angle start with some engaging moves leads up to a standing no hands rest. From the rest break right (the correct bolt is difficult to see until you pull around the corner, but it is easy to correct if needed) pulling difficult moves that may be difficult to decipher. Unfortunately the crux is quickly over and the anchors arrive.
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