Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||Dustin Stephens, 2012|
|Page Views:||131 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Shirtless Mike on Dec 3, 2015|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
Access Issue: Private Property Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
This overlooked route makes for a good warmup, once you've done all the standard lode warmups. A thin low angle start with some engaging moves leads up to a standing no hands rest. From the rest break right (the correct bolt is difficult to see until you pull around the corner, but it is easy to correct if needed) pulling difficult moves that may be difficult to decipher. Unfortunately the crux is quickly over and the anchors arrive.
On the rightside of Buckeye Buttress. Shares the start with "Leftomaniac" before breaking right at the top. To the right is the low angle arete of "Ball Scratcher"
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