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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Josh O'Bryan, John Seymer in 2011
Page Views: 146 total · 4/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 16, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Possibly the most overlooked sport climb at the Motherlode? An interesting slab that starts in a small, vertical scoop feature and continues up debris covered, low angle rock with water grooves and edges to the top.

Start on the right side of the scoop and make a few steep moves to establish yourself on some protruding edges on the left face. A couple perplexing moves get you to a stance about 10 feet below the fourth bolt. Balance up and left along slopey water grooves then shuffle right along a juggy rail to clip(PG13 part). Mantle over the rail and continue up much easier slab using edges to the top.

I admit that this route is dirty, but the rock is great and the climbing is very fun. Might not be the best route for a budding 5.10 climber. Great option if you are looking for an adventure.

Location

Right of Ball Scratcher.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
I like slab but this one kind of sucks. The crux is at the first bolt and the feet are really dirty here. I also broke a large foot hold when trying to make this move. The climbing up high is easy but dirty which is kind of exciting given the spacing between bolts. I even stepped on a frog hiding in one of the cracks during this bit. Sep 6, 2017

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