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The Cream Machine
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in (1) Buckeye Buttress
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Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rug Muncher! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Josh O'Bryan, John Seymer in 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,168 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
Possibly the most overlooked sport climb at the Motherlode? An interesting slab that starts in a small, vertical scoop feature and continues up debris covered, low angle rock with water grooves and edges to the top.
Start on the right side of the scoop and make a few steep moves to establish yourself on some protruding edges on the left face. A couple perplexing moves get you to a stance about 10 feet below the fourth bolt. Balance up and left along slopey water grooves then shuffle right along a juggy rail to clip(PG13 part). Mantle over the rail and continue up much easier slab using edges to the top.
I admit that this route is dirty, but the rock is great and the climbing is very fun. Might not be the best route for a budding 5.10 climber. Great option if you are looking for an adventure.
Start on the right side of the scoop and make a few steep moves to establish yourself on some protruding edges on the left face. A couple perplexing moves get you to a stance about 10 feet below the fourth bolt. Balance up and left along slopey water grooves then shuffle right along a juggy rail to clip(PG13 part). Mantle over the rail and continue up much easier slab using edges to the top.
I admit that this route is dirty, but the rock is great and the climbing is very fun. Might not be the best route for a budding 5.10 climber. Great option if you are looking for an adventure.
2 Comments