Avg: 2.4 from 16 votes
Routes in Buckeye Buttress
|Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||Tim Cornette - 1994|
|Page Views:||103 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||yevquest on Nov 23, 2010|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
Private Property Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
DescriptionLooking for a decent warmup that's rarely crowded? You could do worse than Twisted although I wouldn't go out of my way to do this route.
To the left of Stain is a slab that leads to a crack/dihedral feature that's the shared start of 3 routes. All three climb the slab and then heading left is the Chronic, stay in middle is Twisted, and going hard right around the arete is the Reacharound.
For Twisted, climb the slab (a little sketchy to the second bolt if you're still half asleep) and then up into the crack for a bolt or two. [Don't go left to early, that's the Chronic.] Step left and climb steep jugs for a depressing short time to anchors.
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