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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tim Cornette - 1994
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: yevquest on Nov 23, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

Looking for a decent warmup that's rarely crowded? You could do worse than Twisted although I wouldn't go out of my way to do this route.

To the left of Stain is a slab that leads to a crack/dihedral feature that's the shared start of 3 routes. All three climb the slab and then heading left is the Chronic, stay in middle is Twisted, and going hard right around the arete is the Reacharound.

For Twisted, climb the slab (a little sketchy to the second bolt if you're still half asleep) and then up into the crack for a bolt or two. [Don't go left to early, that's the Chronic.] Step left and climb steep jugs for a depressing short time to anchors.

Location

To the left of Stain on the Buckeye Buttress.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Michael Day!
Boulder, CO parking lots
 
Michael Day!   Boulder, CO parking lots
 
This is an interesting varied route. It goes from slab, to crack, to overhang. I enjoyed warming up on it! Oct 30, 2013