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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dustin Stephen in 2013
Page Views: 155 total, 5/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Apr 16, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

A decent route with a slab start, a standing rest in the middle and a steep finish.

Crimpy slab moves on slightly friable rock get you to a huge scoop where you can relax and scope out the steep upper half. Exit the scoop, and follow deep pockets, and cool pinches to 5 feet below the anchor where the holds seem to peter out. Cut hard left to some knobs, and do an exciting finish move to the lip.

Top gets wet in heavy rain. Will be a nice route when the rock cleans up a bit more.

Location

Sport route to the right of Heart Shape Box.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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